• Choose from the Kill-a-Watt's four settings to monitor your electrical usage
  • Monitor your electrical usage by day, week, month, or year
  • Features easy-to-read screen
  • Electricity usage monitor connects to appliances and assesses efficiency
  • Large LCD display counts consumption by the kilowatt-hour
  • Calculates electricity expenses by the day, week, month, or year
  • Displays volts, amps, and wattage within 0.2 - 2.0percent accuracy
  • Compatible with inverters; designed for use with AC 115-volt appliances

Quite interesting to use. 1800w max rating, and the highest watts I've measured was from a 1980's microwave pulling 1450ish watts. It's just very fun to guess and then check the watts that appliances use. There's more than wattage, of course, as you can see amps, volts, and even measure kilowatt hours... which if you're serious about monitoring your electricity usage, that setting will probably come in the most handy.

I have had one of these Kil-A-Watt devices for years. With this product, I figured out what lighting options were the cheapest to use. Example: an LED bulb I purchased had been advertised as 32-watts. Using the Kil-A-Watt device, I found that was a falsehood, the bulb in question was only using 8w…Not the advertised wattage of 32w (A 5-watt savings over the CF bulbs that I was replacing with a brighter, lower wattage LED). Over time, I have cut my electric bill just over 70 dollars going from regular incandescent bulbs to (CF) Compact Fluorescent and then to LED bulbs. I also figured out what power supplies were the most efficient through the PF Setting (PF = Power Factor. PF is a measurement that informs you about a transformer's efficiency) A perfect PF reading is 100, which cannot happen because transformers are not perfect. The little 8 dollar China made 12volt - 6amp transformer to power LED strip lighting usually have a PF of 67, meaning that they are 67% efficient at converting 120 volts to 12 volts. NOTE: A computer power supply is normally between 85 - 93%. The higher PF factor cuts cost over the long run, is more efficient, and creates less heat during the conversion of 120v AC to 12v DC. The lower the heat output, the longer the transformer will last.

I bought a P4400 in 2011. It showed which household items were power vampires, some using as much power off as on. I could switch them off with power strips or unplug them when not needed. By measuring the power consumption of internet-related equipment, I could estimate how much time a given UPS could give me in the event of a power failure. I kept a spreadsheet of wattage of various items under different conditions, to help future troubleshooting. When my internet speeds slowed down, the P4400 showed me the culprit. The power consumption of the $4 power supply of my VOIP telephone adapter was abnormally high. For the refrigerator, I measured KWH per day for a summer kitchen temperature and for a winter kitchen temperature. After that, the P4400 could show me if the refrigerator was still operating as efficiently, or maybe I needed to check for dust or ice. If a refrigerator wasn’t cooling, the P4400 was a quick way to see if the compressor was drawing current. Last year, I bought a smart charger for car batteries. It had no ammeter. Clipping in a multimeter would have risked a short, a disconnection, or damage to the meter. I plugged the charger into my P4400, and with the multimeter, I determined how many watts the charger needed for each amp out. Then I didn’t need the multimeter. By showing me input wattage, KWH, and time, the P4400 let me know output amps, amp hours, and charging time. The other day, my P4400 was in the engine compartment of a truck as I charged the battery. In case of an unexpected shower, the hood was up only three inches. In a sudden, heavy shower, enough drops blew through the crack to wet the P4400. It still gave credible wattage readings, but not KWH or amps. I bought another one immediately. The P4400 has proved its value. Update: Last year I bought an electric chainsaw. I finally got around to using the P4400 to see if the manufacturer's horsepower claims are true. Apparently so. It also showed me how much voltage I was losing by using 150 feet of extension cords. The flashing display of the P4400 warned me that the current could damage it if I ran the saw more than a few seconds. The manufacture recommends 14 gauge cord or larger. My cords aren't marked. To test, I used an electric skillet. Unlike the saw, it's a resistive load, and it doesn't draw enough current to endanger the meter. First I plugged the P4400 into an outlet and plugged the skillet into the P4400. I noted the voltage drop when I turned it on. Then I plugged an extension cord into the outlet and plugged the P4400 and skillet into the cord. I noted the voltage drop and the amps. I subtracted the voltage drop at the outlet from the voltage drop at the end of the cord to determine how many volts I was losing in the cord. Dividing that by the amps gave me ohms. In the cord, current runs through the hot and the neutral in series, so the path is twice the length of the cord. To get ohms per foot, I divided the ohms by twice the cord length. Knowing ohms per foot, I could look up the gauge online. My cords are 16 gauge. I can probably get 2.5 horsepower with them. I might get 2.75 horsepower if I upgraded to 14 gauge cords. I'm satisfied with 16 gauge.

This inexpensive and useful little meter is quite easy-to-use, and will give you all the information you need to analyze and if necessary, reduce your electricity usage. To use it, unplug the appliance from the wall, plug the meter into the wall socket, then plug the device into the meter with the device turned on. Repeat for every device in your home or apartment. I discovered that the biggest culprit in my home was my television, at 250 W. My tower desktop computer was surprisingly lean, at 93 W. The desktop computer would still draw 6 W even when turned off. The television would draw about that same 6 W. Basically, all over the house I discovered devices that were drawing 2 W to 6 W of electricity even when turned off. My solution was to buy 1/2 dozen multiple output strips that had on-off switches. I plugged all of the culprit devices into these multiple output strips, which gave me the ability to totally kill power to the little power robbers. My energy bill for this month was 28% lower than it was the previous month. In short, this meter paid for itself in the first month.

I love these devices! I currently have 4, two in place in front of UPS's that keep my server & network equipment up and my personal desktop up. I leave these units in to track my network & computing power consumption. The other two I've been using around the house. I plug in a device, leave it for a few days, and it gives me useful metrics on the total consumption over that time, and instantaneous amp or watt draw. Armed with these devices and a spreadsheet, I've indexed every electrical socket in my house and built out documentation and calculations. I now understand what devices draw power when they're NOT in use, and I even have projections on what my future expenses will be under normal usage, minimal usage, and forgetting to turn things off all year usage :) If you're a techie and like getting involved, this is a FANTASTIC tool!

Want to figure out what is using up all your electricity? This thing will help you figure it out with no issues. Simply plug it in to the wall, plug the appliance in to this, and it will immediately start telling you how much electricity is being used. It even tracks usage over time and will give you an estimated cost. Buy this thing now if you want to know how much electricity something is using.

So far so good. Wouldn't put a load on it all the way to the max, but nice to see how much certain things are costing you to run. I tested how much the instant pot uses for certain things, then check sous vide immersion circulator for long cooks on roast (only 1 kWh for entire 24 hour cook!!) Good to know how much things are costing to run. You'd be surprised both good and bad with stuff. FYI this model doesn't save any info. Any time you unplug from the wall it resets. Also, with it's size it will block the second plug on an outlet, so I made up a 1.5ft 12 guage "extension" cord to plug into wall then plug this in to that. If you do this make sure the extension cord you use is proper Guage and length to handle whatever you are plugging in to test. I.E. don't use a 50ft or 100ft 18 or 16 Guage cord to test a 1200watt gadget. You will damage this and maybe the gadget too.

I used this to measure all sorts of devices to prepare for my generator setup on our house. It's amazing how much certain devices draw. But I was also shocked to learn that no, contrary to popular belief, most electronics do not pull 70% of their wattage when they are in sleep mode. Whoever started spreading that rumor didn't think people would buy a watt meter. My TV, PS4, and other entertainment devices pull 0.5 watts while everything is off, and over 300 when everything is on. If I had any improvements it would be a backlit LCD screen so you can read the numbers when it's at an odd angle under a dresser or something.

Okay. I'm a Believer. This kilowatt is amazing. I couldn't stop using it as soon as I opened the Box. I even take this thing with me to visit friends and families for Thanksgiving to Sheldon how much energy usage they're using even when they think they're Appliance are off. It's amazing to see which items are your energy vampires. I never even realize that the cable box was using so much energy. I unplugged it at night when I went to sleep. And plugged it back in in the morning on a outlet bar. And I saw the Amazing Savings on my next electricity bill. You will be amazed. If you don't believe it, just buy one. You'll want to buy more. I can't stop caring mine. I want to knock on my neighbor's door and try other devices on it.😉😊