• USE WHAT THE PROS USE – Extremely strong adhesive sealant retains strength above or below waterline
  • BONDS PERMANENTLY – Ideal for sealing, bonding and attaching on the interiors of boats and RVs, or on exteriors below the waterline and where shielded from the sun
  • LONG LASTING FORMULA – Tough polyurethane polymer resists weathering and salt water
  • WON’T CRACK OR PEEL – Stays flexible, retaining strong bonds even during vibration, structural movement or shock
  • EASY TO APPLY – Adhesive sealant requires no mixing, cures completely in 5-7 days

I love this stuff but you need to understand its properties and when to use it and when not to. 1. It only skins over in about 24 hours and takes up to 7 days to cure a 1/4" bead so it can only be used when the item is not going to be disturbed before it cures. This does help it from hardening up in the tube and I can usually keep a tube around all summer on the boat for small sealing jobs. (There is a Fast Cure 5200) 2. it is very strong once cured. They claim it is for permanent applications. It can be cut to remove an item but the residue is almost impossible to remove. 3. It is very messy and not as viscous as other sealants so caution must be exercised to get a good application. Don't let it drip where you don't want it. Set the caulking gun on cardboard when you stop dispensing and relieve the pressure.

5200, Is what you need for above or below the water line in your boat. A little tip if the tube is hot the sealant can be some what runny, so if you store in in the fridge for a few min, it will be a lot easier to apply.

What can I say...this is the best stuff for marine use, really, anybody who works on boats would agree. What makes this purchase special is the price....here at Amazon it's just-about half price of your family hardware, or boating supply store. Here's a little secret too...keep the partially used tube in your freezer for future use, otherwise it WILL harden-up on you.

After purchasing my first pop riveted Jon Boat over the winter I learned a lot about how to buy a boat. Since I couldn't just take the anchor back, I had to fix the leaks. I thought about welding the aluminum. I thought about putting new metal down. Etc etc. I finally talked with a friend that recommended this. After using an angle grinder to clean up the cracks that were visible I laid this down in a few steps.... to help with drying time. Next I moved on to every rivet on the bottom of the boat. Problem solved. Perfect for solving water leaks.

Pushing 80 years now, I have been in search of the Universal Adhesive (and the Universal Solvent). This stuff comes as close to being a Universal Adhesive as I've been able to find to date. You might think it pricy, but it does the job. What job? Just about anything. I just finished repairing a hoe, the metal hoe part of which had come out of the wooden handle. Worked like a charm. Anything you want to seal, repair, or fix. I had a cow tear a large piece of canvas: sealed a strip of canvas along the three foot tear, and it worked like a charm. I sealed a leaky PVC pipe under water and it worked. Oh, and white or clear, I could care less. I did have to learn that it takes 3-4 days to set up. Good stuff.

I used it to re-glue the trim in a 1968 Johnson outboard cover after I painted with epoxy. From experience, I know it will stick to anything,hold up for years. I've been rebuilding boats for decades, and when I need the real stuff, 5200 is it. One caveat: If you ever want to take it loose, use 3M 4200. It's almost as good, but will peel of without as much effort. 5200 is permanent, and will pull up whatever it is stuck too. mask your joints, and clean up with acetone. wear gloves.

Great Permanent sealer!!! I use this on my boat to permanently attach accessories, even below the water line. However, I can not repeat this enough - This sealer is PERMANENT!!! If you try to remove anything attached or sealed with 3M 5200, you will destroy your fiberglass hull! If you are anticipating removing whatever you are attaching or sealing, I would HIGHLY suggest that you use 3M 4200 sealer!

Have an above ground pool? Or any pool with a liner? BUY THIS!!!!!!! NOW!!!!!! My brother had a Large tear in his pool bottom. It spidered in every direction. I put a BLOB of this on a disposable trowel, and took a dive. I spread it like a 3 yr old frosting a cake. (The pool was already 9yrs old, this was it's Last Stand.) 4 YEARS!! later, NOT - A - DROP!!! This stuff Cures Under Water!! There is Nothing like it!! We used it on our boats, as it was made for, but the POOL?? ! ! It saved us Thou$and$!! Warning - It does harden once opened, so don't plan on getting more than 2 uses from the tube. Used it once without the nozzle. 2nd time, I speared the hardened end and got use. By the third time? I had to pierce the side of the tube and scoop out what I could. But even if you only get One use, It's Worth it.

I love this tan sealant for covering rubber covered cables to the lights in a fountain, the color blends with the floor. My only complaint, which is true of all tube caulks, is that after partial use the remaining caulk hardens. This isn't caused by air infiltrating at the tip but at the plunger end and there is no preventative. I do have to replace the caulk every 4 years because it eventually hardens and cracks but I don't believe there is a better marine caulk that can withstand constant sunlight and water.

This one step polyurethane, will NEVER GROW MOLD like silicons will. The adhesion is outstanding. It does take 7 days to fully cure, but is dry to the touch the next day, albeit still soft. It just about bonds to anything. You do need a little lacquer thinner around in case you want to smooth it a little. (It is NOT WATER CLEANUP.). But for door sills, boats, and anything to do with water, this is it. I use it to seal around tubs and showers as well. NO MOLD EVER!