Features:

  • IMPORT CARS - Made to fit all cars with 45mm threaded hydraulic fluid reservoir caps. Also fits some GM clutches
  • HEAVY-DUTY - Corrosion-proof materials and design ensures power bleeder to be maintenance free for years of service
  • PORTABLE - Built-in hand pump allows use anywhere from the home, shop, or track. The easy to pressurize system allows for one-person operation
  • FLUSH AND BLEED - The 2 quart pressure tank holds enough fluid for a complete system flush. Precision pressure gauge ensures safe and effective operation
  • KIT INCLUDES - Everything needed for a hydraulic brake fluid job - pressure tank, hand pump, gauge, 1100 adapter, gasket and hose
Definite Buy! Don't waste money on a mityvac! Get a power bleeder!

I really truly love this device. It is by far both the best and the quickest way to bleed your brakes that I have ever found. I've bought and used every type of bleeder out there, and this style is by far my favorite. I've tried the whole pedal pump method, and let's face it...it sucks. Not only that, but it's actually a good way to kill your master cylinder too! The rod inside the MC is only used to traveling so far, but when you're bleeding your brakes it can easily go too far. It ends up destroying internal seals, and you end up wondering why on earth your brakes won't work anymore no matter what you do. 6 months ago I bought a "MityVac"...worst product ever made! Within a few days it was falling apart, and it honestly just never worked all that well to begin with. It actually snapped in half earlier today. I will say that it was better than bleeding your brakes by pumping the pedal, but not by a lot. The only other method I can really highly recommend for brake bleeding is the gravity method. It works wonderfully in almost every situation. I can't say for sure how it works with ABS systems without a scan tool, but it works great in pretty much every normal situation you can think of. The problem, however, is that it takes forever! It's literally a 12-24 hour long process to gravity bleed your brakes. On the plus side, you only need to be there at the beginning and the end, but still... The Power bleeder...requires the absolute least amount of effort, and you can bleed your brakes in like 10 minutes. You fill it up with fluid. You pump up the pressure, and you go around the car cracking each bleeder screw one at a time. The best part? You don't have to keep an eye on the fluid level. You don't have to go add more every few minutes. You don't have to go through a whole setup process at each wheel. You've got pressure going to all 4 wheels, so crack any one of them you like. Actually, you have pressure going to the master cylinder outlets too for that matter! I did a really half...you know what...job of bench bleeding my new master cylinder, but the power bleeder worked just fine with it. I just used the power bleeder to bleed the MC in the car by cracking the line open for a few seconds before moving on to the wheels. It worked great, and I've got a perfectly firm pedal after maybe 10 minutes of work. I can not recommend this product enough! DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A MITYVAC!!! GET A POWER BLEEDER!!!

Excellent product for any auto mechanic or DIY

It looks like great concept for bleeding or changing brake fluid. It fit to my two cars Mercedes and BMW. As experienced auto mechanic for over 36 years I cannot pay $950.00 for B1 service in my local mercedes dealer, which included engine oil change and filter. brake fluid change and cabin filter. O yes, you will get free coffee and cookie, bottle of cold water and "free" car wash... So I bought engine oil evacuator and this little brake pressure bleeder from Amazon, plus genuine mercedes oil and filter, cabin filter and brake fluid from dealer only to preserve my new car original warranty as required to use genuine parts only and saved my receipts. Oil, fluids and filters double priced by dealer, but no choice there because of warranty. This bleeder is great, I only bought quick connector from Harbor freight to make easy to connect to master cylinder without twisting hose. Honestly they should include in the package, other than that it is excellent product and priced right. I will recommend it to any enthusiast or DIY people.

Did the job exactly as advertised.

Did the job exactly as advertised. The adapter cap fit my 2010 MINI Cooper Hardtop (R56) reservoir perfectly. Once I got the cap tightened well enough, it did not leak. I pumped it up to 20 psi, did the first corner which meant flushing all of the fluid currently in the reservoir. It lost about 5 psi. Each of the remaining corners used 2-3 psi, didn't really need to pump it again but did anyway to maintain speed. I used clear fuel tubing from the local auto parts store into a clear plastic candy jar, which made it easy to see how well the fluid was flowing, and when the old yellow fluid was out and the new clear fluid was in. I used about half of a 32oz bottle of brake fluid. The other half was wasted but necessary to ensure that I didn't force air into the lines. The 32oz bottle is only $3 more than the 12oz bottle, so it was still the most cost-effective option. It was so nice not to need a 2nd person to pump the brakes while opening and closing the bleeder. Just opened it, waited 2-3 mins for the fluid to clear up, and closed it again. No worries about air bubbles staying in the lines due to the pumping action and delays between pumps.

Pricey, But Makes Brake Bleeding Much Easier

This item works very well. I initially bought it to help me bleed brakes when I'm by myself. However, I find it easier to use even when you do have help. Since you can put up to two quarts of brake fluid in the tank, you don't have to worry as much about drying the master cylinder. Since it is under pressure, it will continue to push fluid into the master cylinder reservoir and keep it topped off until you are done bleeding/flushing. I originally got this kit for my Volvo. I ended up buying a Power Probe BA10 adapter for my Toyota. It works well. Only problem is you should be prepared to buy more pvc tubing: the pvc tubing that came with it is brake fluid resistant but is expensive to buy as replacement/add-on; regular pvc tubing works okay, but you'll probably only get one bleed out of a length of it. So you should factor in the cost of replacement pvc tubing and additional adapters and fittings for other cars as consumables.

Worked for me...

Used this on a 2003 Focus ZX3 without ABS/TC....once things were ready it took maybe 15 minutes to do. 1 I used teflon tape at the union for the 2 sections of hose. 2 I used some brake fluid to lube the rubber gaskets at both the reservoir and cap on top the tank. 3 Did a DRY pressure test by pumping the tank up to 10 PSI and watching to see if the pressure fell. It held. 4 They say to use 2 quarts brake fluid...I put in one quart...and actually used maybe 1 pint. The pickup for the brake fluid is right below the output tube at the bottom corner of the tank...keep this area at a low point...and you're good to go...any air you let in from the tank means you start over. I had a clear tube going into a small bottle...mainly needed to watch the clear tube to see when any bubbles stopped coming in the fluid. Started right rear...left rear...right front...left front...job done...except for the cleanup.

Worked great on my BMW

I had to service my BMW 135i and so I bought this to be able to do it on my own. The cap fit perfectly without any leaks. The tank is solid and with some rubbing alcohol this is really easy to clean after you're done using it (which I must emphasize, it is very important to clean right after using this and DO NOT USE WATER TO CLEAN THIS). I didn't have any weird leaks anywhere and it's pretty simple to operate. It holds pressure just fine. Overall I'm very happy with with it.

Easy brake fluid changes for euro cars

Super easy to flush brake fluid on many European cars. Used it on our Audi A4 and BMW Z4. First I use a turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the brake reservoir, then refill with fresh fluid. Fill the Motive bottle with fresh fluid and connect to the brake reservoir. Pump it up a little, then loosen wheel bleeder screws with a plastic tube attached, as usual. Complete fluid flush in 15 minutes by one person. Easy! When done be sure to clean out the Motive bottle as directed. If you don’t it will get ruined over time... don’t ask how I know!

Won't use any other brake bleeder method

Once you use this pressurized fluid canister, you will not want to use any other method. Blead your brakes easily by yourself. I used a cheap Turkey baster to remove old brake fluid from the brake reservoir; put new fluid in the reservoir and the Power Bleader; pressurized the power bleeder between 10 and 15 psi. Then, cracked the caliper bleeder screws at each brake caliper, one at a time, following your car manufacturer's caliper bleed sequence.

Quality Tool

Replacing master cylinder in SxS and internet strongly recommends pressure bleeding for install. This is a quality tool but does not have correct cap (didn't expect it to) and web research said I wouldn't find one. So I fashioned a cap from hardware store fittings and piping and a little epoxy using cap from old m/c. Works well. Oh, and just go ahead and buy 2 quarts of brake fluid; you'll waste a lot! You'll need a gallon of denatured alcohol, too, to clean the tank once work complete. Should not leave brake fluid in tank.

Not 100% perfect but pretty close

Worked great for my bmw 3 series convertible. If you are pondering between this model and black (the expensive) version then I don't think the black one is worth the price difference unless you plan to use it very frequently. For infrequent users, save 18+ dollars and buy this one. Best work around to get the black model effect is to hold the cap that goes on brake fluid reservoir tightly and rotate empty brake pump bottle (I think it's clockwise) to two turns holding the bottle tight, put the cap on the reservoir holding the bottle tight after the turn, the pipe will unwind as the cap is rotated on the reservoir. I use the pump dry (follow youtube instructions), pump it up to 15 psi, I experienced some leakage in the pressure after bleeding rear wheels, re-pump to mid-teens for front wheels. When done, rotate the bottle (two rounds) anti-clockwise this time and unscrew the cap from brake fluid reservoir holding the bottle tight.

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