Features:

  • Little or no preparation required
  • Applies directly over rust UV resistant will not fade or crack
  • Simple one step process
  • No topcoat needed
  • Brush, roll, or spray on
Nothing like it. The best.

I've worked in corrosion remediation for a bit over 20 years. The gold standard clean and paint begins with a white metal abrasive blast, followed by high performance coating systems. If maintained, it will last a good while. This is very expensive and rarely seems to get the maintenance painting necessary. For my money, time, effort and bloody knuckles, a coat or two of Rust Bullet, followed by a topcoat (if you want), is vastly more cost effective. As a test recently, I painted some wire brushed rusty piping. Once it had dried for a few hours, I tried to remove the rust Bullet coating with a new MBX Bristle Blaster. These things are a notch below sand blasting. Without parking overnight on the new coating (with the MBX tool), the single coat of Rust Bullet did not come off. Even a little. What is it? Not really a primer. Certainly not a rust converter. I feel it is better than Por 15. It is my go-to coating for infrastructure recovery

but it looks like it's not going to wear off through normal use ...

Repaired some fender rust with this stuff. Too early to tell how well it will hold up in the long term, but it appears to be impenetrable after applying two coats and allowing to cure for 24 hours. Sure, you can sand it off with sandpaper, but it looks like it's not going to wear off through normal use and it certainly doesn't look like it will leak water/air through the coating. I also applied Blackshell as a topcoat, which seems almost rubbery in a way. It's very hard, but the finish has some "grip" to it. Again, I doubt any sort of water or air will penetrate this stuff. Went on very easy and dried quickly. Blackshell is fairly high gloss, but is more of a very dark grey than a deep black. Doesn't quite match my car paint, but it's close enough. Only downside is that after the can sat open for about 30 minutes while I applied it, it really skinned over fast and was unusable after less than a week. The instructions say to pour out only enough to do your job and immediately replace the lid on the can, so I did not follow those directions and paid the price. I would definitely buy this stuff again, and I would immediately cover it when not in use.

Rust Bullet- Worth the Money

This stuff is by far the best rust stopper out there. It is NOT a rust converter. Once it cures, it is very, very tough and impregnable to acetone, xylene, toluene, lacquer thinner, etc...every thing that would normally dissolve a paint or primer. As a test, I cut a rusty panel out of a car and left some parts rusty, some parts I wirebrushed, and then painted with this stuff. I deliberately left rusty edges to check for rust creep. This metal has set outside my shop for three years now, occasionally being lost by being covered with wet leaves. The Rust Bullet shows no signs of rust through and rust doesn't seem to be creeping up from the edges. As noted by others though, USE GLOVES!! Nothing short of a grinder will take it off your skin. Another suggestion, buy in small containers because once opened, it will start to cure. I use Bloxygen to retard the curing and keep it usable for a couple months.

High quality rust protection

This product shoots out of my cheap harbor freight paint gun very well. Don't be tempted to lay it on too thick/heavy for it will solvent pop a zillion little tiny blisters in your finish. Better to apply 4 lighter coats with enough dry time between rather than 2 heavy coats. You'll be in no danger of solvent pop and the finish will be gorgeous. This stuff is tough. I tested it by hitting a piece of sheet-metal I'd sprayed some on to see if it would crack and chip off. I hit it hard too. No evidence I even was there. Stuff is resilient. Also make sure to abrade the surface per the instructions before you spray well enough so it will stick. Doesn't stick very well to shiny surfaces, as no paint will. Had to remove some for welding in one area and it was pretty hard to sand off, as it should be. Good product! Also order it in smaller cans. Once you open the can you must shoot it all out of that can. You will destroy the lid getting it off and once open to the atmosphere the stuff begins curing and will harden up on you. Smaller cans work better. I order quarts size and that seems to work great for me. 1 quart will cover alot.

Unbelievable Adhesion - NOT removable after application

This paint is indestructible. The film adhesion is unbelievable. Reminds me of liquid steel. If you get it on your hands, prepare to live with a gray coating for the rest of your life. I have never encountered a paint like this with this kind of "mechanical" stability once on a substrate. You need to wear a respirator though unless you are outdoors or set up a fan to draw air away from the spot where you are applying the coating. On "clean" steel this stuff is probably as durable as you will ever get. On rust (my application), of course I have no knowledge yet of the potential durability of the coating but it is certainly clear that on clean steel this stuff will be unbelievably durable. It will be here after you are dead...LOL.

This Stuff is Tough!

I used this on the metal post supports of our sheet metal carport. The supports were in a wildfire and the chemicals in the smoke made rust and corrosion form. We ground the loose stuff off the posts using a metal brush on an angle grinder. We applied the Rust Bullet with paint rollers and a brush. The posts look great and this product seems to dry pretty fast. Acetone will clean your brush, but it leaves a residue in the bristles. Use a throwaway brush. I thought a sprayer would cause too much overspray and be difficult to clean. Rust Bullet is not really a thick paint like latex. I got a couple of drips on my face and haven't gotten it all off so far today. Even with the lid on the can a partial film formed over night. I had to order some more so I just bought a pint instead of a quart. The posts were not rusty before the fire so we are only applying one coat for now. Wear gloves and an old baseball cap.

Works well, smells up the place, have good ventilation

I used a quart to seal the inside of a 32 gallon air tank that was rusty. I used it after derusting the tank with muriatic acid. I poured the whole quart in, and rolled the tank slowly around and stood it on end to distribute the sealer. I let it sit for 30 min in each position then repeated. I had plenty of sealer and I let the extra puddle in the bottom of the tank since the bottom fitting was raised a bit into the bottom of the tank which prevents all the water from coming out when draining it. The sealer set up nicely and only a little bit dripped out when I removed the bottom drain. I have used POR before on gas tanks and this seems like the same product. It does dry to a very hard finish. I expect it to last a long time. It does have a very bad smell when drying so make certain you have proper ventilation. The volatiles are probably not very good for you. I used Acetone to clean up when I was done.

RUST BULLET Automotive - Rust Inhibitor Rust Paint

I have used RUST BULLET Automotive - Rust Inhibitor Rust Paint on several different auto's for the exact same issue, Battery leaks under the hood that had caused rust in the engine bay. I remove the batter and tray and whatever else may be in the way of getting to all the rusted metal that was caused by the battery leak and clean it up the best I can they apply 2 to 3 coats of RUST BULLET Automotive - Rust Inhibitor Rust Paint and never have to worry about the issue ever again. This stuff forms a super tough coat of protection that stops rust in it's tracks and I can say, because I still own my HD truck of 19 years, that the rust has never come back even though I had a second battery leak it could not get through the super hard coating of Rust Bullet! If you are reading this review you should do what I have done, replace every battery in every vehicle with a AGM batter so you won't ever face this issue! I recommend Odyssey, yes they are more expensive but they last 3 to 4 times longer and will never leak or cause corrosion on your terminal cables. Also, on my daughters car after putting on 2 coats RUST BULLET Automotive - Rust Inhibitor Rust Paint I also put on 2 coats or Rust Bullet Clear Shot as RUST BULLET Automotive - Rust Inhibitor Rust Paint is a dull finish but the clear shot is clear is like the clear coat on your car but way tougher.

Looks good on the car

First of all, let me say claims that paint sticks on you for life are unfounded:) My arm touched a painted surface and after 5 days I saw no trace of the paint on my arm. Now to the review. I have had this on the underbelly of my car for almost 2 weeks now. So too soon to make any claims. What I noticed is the ease with which this sticks to the metal. Dries quite fast too. Painted on a cold rainy day and by the time I was done with the exposed metal surfaces, it was dry enough to start painting over area I started from. The color is fantastic. Makes me wanna just get under the car for no reason:) Winter is around the corner. We'll see how well it holds against Canadian salted roads

Me likey

I brushed two coats of this onto a pair of rock sliders. It's very thin and didn't level very well. This was fine because I'm using it as primer for the bed liner material going on top. If I wanted a better surface, I'd definitely spray it on. That said, it is thin and likes to drip. Be sure and set aside enough time for the second coat or you'll be sorry. Prep for the bare metal sliders was just wax and grease remover. Much easier than POR-15. The stuff dries pretty solid. I had to use a die grinder to get off some drips that had dried and cured. I had no issues with the can drying up over the two or three weeks it took me to finish the project. Good stuff.

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