• Removes embedded grains of metal, tree sap, airborne environmental deposits and paint overspray for "new" look
  • Safe to use on paint
  • Includes 2 clay bars, Showtime Instant Detailer, Microfiber towel
  • Regular use provides a long lasting benefit to your vehicle

All this talk about clay-bars.. not knowing much of anything about it, I purchased this locally for several $$ more.. liking it so much I purchased a few more kits on Amazon. I needed this because my new frost-white truck showed signs of rail-head dust contamination. It shows up like little little rust-colored stains in the paint and they do not wipe off with washing or detail spray. I was freaked out because I just bought my truck and if you know anything about the cost of new trucks you'd definitely understand why I was stressing. The entire truck (all horizontal surfaces) had these rust circles that were the size of a round pencil eraser. Did some research and the signs were pointing towards clay bars. I clay barred my entire truck in about an hour.. It's easy. First wash and dry your vehicle, second flatten out one of the supplied clay bars, third pick an area to start, fourth spray a 1 square foot section with the supplied detail spray and wipe the section with the clay bar with little or no pressure.. all the contaminate comes off like magic. then wipe off that finished area with the supplied micro-fiber cloth..

Good Clay, have not tried the spray yet as I still had left over Mguiars detail spray. I have seen on many youtube vid's people just use water as a wetting agent for Clay baring, so I add 50% reverse osmosis water to my detail spray and it seems to work Fantastic. These Mother's Clay bars ARE larger than the Meguiars clay bar kit. I Cut these bars in half with scissors, and 1/2 a bar pancaked worked great for my Chevy Silverado 2500. I saved the other 1/2 bar in a baggie for the next job, and even save the used 1/2 bar for the next time's use in dirty area's like rocker panel's and such. I clay bar once a year or less - every other wax. I use Meguiars Ultimate wax and feel it is The BEST!

We just purchased a white car, but it seemed to be stained with dirt that the car was nowhere near white. It almost looked gray. :/ We took it through the car wash and that did NOTHING. We tried scrubbing the car down with Dawn dish soap and the just left streaks and made the car look worse because it only partially cleaned the car. I had heard about a clay bar before, so I thought I'd try this. The car looks awesome now! It is actually white and got all the stains out. As far as the actual process, it probably took about 3-4 hours total. Partly because the car was so dirty and partly because I had to learn as I went. I had seen the video "how to's" for claying your car, but I still had to figure out what worked for me to get the job done. Some parts of the car needed a lot more attention than others. I used one of the included bars and it looks quite dirty now. I don't know if I'll use it again next time I clay the car. But the clay kind of reminded me of a pencil eraser and I was using the eraser to erase the dirt. It was amazing watching it as it got clean! The instant detailer spray smelled to me like the red hots candy. I mostly used soap and water for lubricant, not the spray. I don't know whether that's a good idea or not, but that's what I did. I used the spray a little bit, but it didn't seem like it made a difference in the effectiveness of the clay bar compared to using soap and water. I used the spray after I clayed to remove residue and kind of polish it off with the microfiber cloth. The car looks so much better now, this is definitely a miracle product!

This is normally my detailing clay that I go to most of the time. Yes there are MANY other types of clays that can do a better job but they are normally more expensive or harsher via the abrasiveness. This is a great kit to get someone that has never done it before because it's much harder to mar up the paint. I would say 90% of the time this is what I clay bar my cars with and friends when I detail. I love the detailing spray because it smells like cinnamon. Just a tip is cut the clay bar into 4 pieces. That way when you drop a piece on the floor you are not throwing out the entire bar ;-p Plus you can use one piece for the lower rocker panels, one for the wheels, and then you have two other pieces for the rest of the car.

I have been working on cars and am very particular when it comes to interior and exterior car I have been wanting to use clay bar on my vehicle for many years now, I have just been hesitant because of the time consumption. I am a father of 3 and spare time is in short supply at my house ;). I finally just got this and tries it last weekend. I am very amazed by the results. It is super easy to use and made the surface of my 07 Suburban absolutely silky smooth. I had some contaminants on the paint that would not come off with the last 5-10 washes. The clay bar was able to pull up over half of the tar like substance that was stuck to the side of my Suburban. Whatever was left behind I need to get a more aggressive product like rubbing compound, I think. I have no complaints. I really found the clay easy to mold and easy to use on the paint. Just a tip for other first timers. only use half a bar at a time (in case you drop it, your not out an entire bar of clay)

I felt compelled to write a review based on the success of this product. I recently purchased my first vehicle: a used 1997 Honda Civic. I proudly took it home, and parked it in its new domicile in the parking garage of my apartment building. I let it rest overnight, thinking it was safe and sound. Imagine my sorrow when I visited it the next day for a drive... HORRORS!!! A nefarious sewage pipe, lurking in the ceiling, had leaked unmentionable white corrosive ectoplasm onto the roof of my new friend! The splatters covered a good quarter of the car, and the filthy residue they left behind simply would NOT come off! In frantic haste, I applied water and a towel. No joy. I dug out some mild soap and a slightly abrasive cloth. Failure. I resorted to grease-cutting detergent and as much force as I could muster. The splotches stayed, and the sewer pipe laughed evilly at my futile efforts. I was defeated. In my grief, a friend of mine suggested I try the clay bar system. I sprung for it, not expecting much, but hoping at best to polish up the unaffected side of the car. My arch-nemesis the pipe (although now taped up and plastered with a warning sign) still snickered at me from the other side of the garage. But as I applied the clay to the stains, the heavens broke and angelic voices drowned out the wicked gurgle. The residuum was going away! Hoping against hope, I kept working the area, and lo and behold, it was GONE! Now I am laughing, and the pipe no longer darkens my days. Thanks to Mothers for making a great product, and helping me enjoy the bond with my first car. ***** Okay, now, amusing narrative aside, this stuff DOES work. It took out the nasty, otherwise-indelible stains I mentioned above. It also took about 10 years off the appearance of the paint job. That's 18-year old paint looking like 7-8 year old paint: quite a noticeable difference. I couldn't quite get mine to pass the "towel test," but it passed the "spray bottle test." I.e. the spray bottle sat, unmoving, on the uncleaned area of the hood. But when placed on the clayed area, it slid right off. Provable, objective difference. It does require elbow grease and time to get this result. I am pretty sure this car was never clayed previously, and probably not waxed. I spent about 1 hour per section of car to get this result (i.e. one hour for one door, one hour for the trunk, one hour for the roof, 90 minutes for the hood, etc.) but to me it was well worth it. You may get faster results if your paint is better off to start with. Best of luck!

I own a Black Chevy Silverado and have been learning more and more about detailing. I recently found the autogeek.com website and it mentioned a clay bar. After a bit of research I decided to try out the Mothers California Clay Bar System. After using the clay bar for the first time I can say it is a must if you plan on detailing your vehicle to prep it for wax, paint protection, etc. To use it correctly make sure to follow the directions it comes with. Again, I found the Autogeek.com website to be very useful. It has multiple videos on how to detail your vehicle including how to use a clay bar. Just a few tips to get you started though. It comes with two clay bars, 1 bottle of lubricant and a microfiber towel. When you open the clay bar kneed it until it is soft. Spray the vehicle liberally and slide the clay bar over the car only over the lubricated area. With the Mothers California Gold Clay Bar you can feel and sometimes even hear the clay bar picking up the debris from the paint of the vehicle. Once you have used the clay bar then use the microfiber towel to wipe away the excess lubricant. I wouldn't say I had any issues with the clay bar system. Just a few things to take note of. Make sure to only use the clay bar where you have lubricated the vehicle or it can destroy your paint. The spray has an odd minty scent (Makes your car smell minty fresh.) If you drop the clay bar on the ground I would highly recommend switching to another bar and throwing it away. It can pick up dirt very easily. If you get a small rock or pebble in it and don't realize it then it can destroy your paint! To fully clay bar the entire truck took about an hour. It is time intensive but it is definitely worth it. This is a great product. It gives your vehicle that silky smooth feeling before you have even waxed it. When you go to wax your vehicle it makes it so much faster as the car has been fully removed of any debris in the paint. So it goes on and comes off extremely easily.

This claybar works miracles. After the front brakes blew up and covered my car in brake dust and rust specks all hope was lost. This stuff was seriously caked onto the car to the point of trying to replace the entire door. One hour with the bar and a total transformation happened.

So essentially I've learned that this product uses hydroplaning of the clay to pick up foreign fragments that causes your car's paint to feel gritty (even after washed). When I first found out about "claying" a car I was ecstatic. My pre-owned car looked nice but it didn't look or feel spectacular. I picked a kit up at my local AutoZone and watched a few videos to find out the best techniques for claying a car. I grabbed a kit,thoroughly washed my car but left it wet after the final rinse: got a bucket of water out and went to work. In about 2 hours my entire car was as smooth as glass to the touch. I was so amazed and in love with the results! My 10 year old car- YES 10 years old- looked and felt like a 2012/13 model! It was the very first time my car had ever been clayed so it only made sense to me that it would take so long. SPRAY: I found out that using water as lubrication instead of the spray that comes with the kit is generally a better choice (in my opinion). The spray left a residue and I couldn't work fast enough wipe it down after I used it. Yeah, that residue took 2 more washes to get off. Also the spray smells minty - in a weird way. after claying it I rinsed it again (to get rid of any water marks) then dried it and continued to polish/wax it. TIME: After this initial 2hr job I only needed to clay my car for 45 minutes or so every 4 1/2 months. I live in the city so my car is often exposed to airborne pollution and debris from construction. Tips: ***EDIT: NOV 2016 Please Read -I suggest using a bucket of water or a spray bottle with NORMAL SOAPY water for lubrication (think bubbly, but not gobs of foam) If your water is too soapy the clay starts to melt, but yes, slightly soapy water does work better- I've experimented a couple of different times. Just don't use dirty soapy water. I still don't use the spray (I've now clayed about 6 different cars multiple times each), but find, as others suggested, soapy water to be a better fit. **You need to keep the area you're claying/barring, nice and lubricated as much as possible- if you're using soapy water have a microfiber towel on hand to squeeze water over the area after every few swipes of the clay. -Your car's body must be spotless before you clay it (wash the car but don't dry it) dry it after you clay it and rinse it -you can clay the windows too! -If you want to test the texture of your car's paint after it is washed run your fingers gently down the hood and on various parts of the body. If your fingers catch a little bit and you can feel debris you should clay your car. To amplify your sense of touch put a ziploc bag over your hand and then feel around. -get rid of any bracelets, belts,watches, rings etc when detailing your car; many times people do not notice that they press themselves against the body when detailing and thus run the risk of scratching up the paint. -Polish then wax your car after you have clayed it to seal out any debris and to bring out the best shine in the paint The clarity and texture of the paint on my car was greatly improved after claying it :)- I don't think my paint could be clearer ________________ **1st pic of 05' Mazda clayed only, 2nd pic of '05 Mazda clayed then polished, 3rd pic is a '08 Sebring clayed and waxed, and finally the 4th picture is of a Porsche 968 95' after being clayed, polished, and waxed. All cars had glass smooth paint afterwards!