Features:

  • A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants that is salt, corrosion, and moisture resistant
  • Use for easy assembly and disassembly of metal parts; enables easier disassembly of parts exposed to high temperatures
  • Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion, and seizing due to weathering or chemicals
  • Temperature Range: -80°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C)
  • Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts; apply to anchor pins on brake assemblies, u-bolts and spring bolts, hinges, gears, chain, sprockets, and rollers
Opposes seizures everywhere.

It opposes unjust seizures. Perfect for liberty minded connections. I've used it for years anytime I want to be able to remove a nut or bolt in poor conditions. It's essential if you're threading steel into aluminum, such as a spark plug into an aluminum head. I use it on my car's brake hubs prior to mounting the wheels. Having had to beat on wheel to dislodge it in the past convinced me of the need. Also good for slip fit exhausts and such. You need to be aware that it you use this product (or one like it) torque readings will be inaccurate. For this reason, if you're installing something requiring a specific torque, make sure you can use this product before potentially breaking bolts or studs.

Anti-Seize

This Aluminum based product is good general purpose anti-seize. Says: "For brake lube assembly and anchor pins, engine head bolts, spark plug & oxygen sensor threads, exhaust manifold studs, EGR fittings and starter & alternator bolts." They make a Copper based one that specifically says for spark plugs in aluminum heads, but should not be used on Stainless Steel. There is a Nickel based one that is good for regular steel, stainless steel, titanium, and nickel alloys, which seems like the best general purpose option, but costs much more and has a carcinogen warning (don't use it for makeup). There is also a graphite based Molly one that uses no metals, but it is also expensive. There are lots of opinions out there, but it's hard to find a detailed, not biased comparison of the different types of anti-seize.

make sure it's nice and smooth and I guarantee you the next time ...

Let's see if this sounds familiar... wham, wham, smack, wham, argggggghhhhh, smash, smash, wham, !@$!@#%^*#. That's the sound of you trying to get your old rotor off when you're replacing your brakes. Well its the sound of me getting a rusted one off anyways. If you've struggled to get an old rotor off, this will help prevent you from hurting yourself and putting a new dent in the car with a rubber mallet next to the one your wife put where she claims a shopping cart must have run into it while she was in the store... So cars are frustrating sometimes, they don't need to be. Places this stuff on the hub before you put your new rotor on, make sure it's nice and smooth and I guarantee you the next time you go to take the rotor off, it'll almost feel like Christmas morning. And lets face it... with your 16 year old kid driving the car, you're going to be replacing those brakes again realllllllll soon.

Save Your Knuckles, And Your Frustration

I would never install exhaust manifold bolts without this stuff, or various other bolts for that matter. The shop that rebuilt an engine prior, did not. Broke 2 bolts off in the head. I busted knuckles, made up a few new bad words and threw a ratchet into the pond. When I changed out the exhaust manifold gasket and installed new bolts, this was applied in case they ever need to be removed again. This same size bottle at local auto parts store was $3 more. I don’t think I will ever run out.

and you could easily go without it

This is one of those things that are not REALLY necessary, and you could easily go without it, but you will thank yourself later on if you have to remove screws and other stuff, and it come out easily, instead of having you swear for half an hour and maybe strip the threads, or the head of the screw (which will result in a lot more swearing). Especially with spark plugs, you don't want to have to apply too much strength to take them out. Aluminum heads can get damaged more easily that you would think. Ultimately it's just a dollar and it can save you a lot of headaches down the road so it's a no-brainer in my opinion.

Lug Nuts, Spark Plugs, Exhaust & EGR Assy, Marine, List Goes On

My last same-sized container anti-seize lasting me 30 years (home use), so my children will finish this one. About it: It's silver in color, 8-oz. container (a bunch), -65F - 1600F, Anti-Seize, -Corrosion and -Galling; has Lid Brush; label indicates "Made in USA". Specific Use: Ease assembly and disassembly of hardware which experience extreme temperatures and/or corrosive conditions. I've used this routinely, and sparingly for it does not take much - just a light swipe on threads, mating surfaces etc. Most of my last container went to lubricating boat and boat engine components for very good saltwater corrosion prevention. A general caution is: not apply to business end of sparkplug, O2 sensor etc (lightly on threads/sealing surface only) - else could impact component performance (never seen it happen lol). *UPDATE: I visited Permatex website - wished I'd done so earlier ... A summary: From Website Technical Data Sheets (TDS), This Permatex (80078) has ingredients of "aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants ... meets or exceed requirements of Mil Spec Mil-A-907E." Temperature Range: "-51F to 1600F" Flash: ">350F" TDS Applications: "Sparkplug threads, Exhaust & Engine Hardware, Brake Assemblies, Boilers, Ovens, Jet Engines and Turbines.", and does refer to a "Marine" use. Permatex Copper: This may be a preferred product due to seemingly inherent do-all capability: Dielectric grease, anti-seize, anti-corrosion to include mating surfaces of dissimilar metals. Specific from TDS, " ... designed for stainless ... contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic, grease carrier and fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors ... provides good electrical conductivity ... meets Mil Spec A-907." Temperature Range: "-30F to 1800F" Flash: "300F" TDS Applications: "Sparkplug threads installed into aluminum heads, Exhaust & Engine hardware, Oxygen sensors, Knock sensors, Thermostat housing bolts, Fuel filter fittings, Battery cable connections." Permatex Nickel: Specific from TDS, "Nickel Anti-Seize was designed specifically for use on stainless steel or similar alloys ... use where copper contamination must be avoided, under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys ... contains tenacious metals, oils and graphite materials that cannot be burned away or removed by slow moving parts." Product description also refers "protection of mated dissimilar metals." Temperature Range: "-65F to 2400F" Flash: "200F" TDS Applications: "Exhaust & Catalytic converter assemblies." Kyle

A must where threads might rust.

I'm not an expert on the various grades of anti-sieze compounds but, if you want to break threads loose at any time in the future, something like this is a must. I use this mostly on my folding utility trailer and my hurricane shutter bolts. On a couple of rooms that we don't use much, I leave the shutters on throughout the storm season. The bolts will rust or corrode in a few weeks of our climate. The folding trailer has four bolts, two on each side, that secure the back half of the frame to the spring saddle. With bolts removed, the back frame folds over the front frame. Then the trailer stands on end for space-saving storage. This compound insures that I'll be able to break the nuts loose from the bolts after any amount of time. In this application, however, the nuts must be tightened and lock-washered securely onto the bolts do they don't loosen in use. I like this particular package for its value and applicator brush as compared to a one ounce squeeze tube that cost nearly the same amount. Also, I typically end up tossing out a squeeze tube before the product is used up because of leaks.

More affordable for more of a good thing.

This compound works great. I use it on just about every fastener that I remove and re-install. It has prevented galling and seized threads in every application for me. I can only speculate from feel, but it seems to help enable more accurate torqueing by minimizing stiction during the process. Up to now I purchased anti-seize in the small squeeze tubes at the auto parts store. No more. Now buying in bulk and will continue to use where a bolt meets a thread that may need to come back apart at some point in the future.

Can't go wrong with anti seize ...

No matter what you are working on and if there are threads that you will need to take apart at a later date even lug nuts on your rims, you should use this stuff. If you find yourself buying a single tube once or twice a year then you should get the big bottle. Unless you leave it open and never use it for many years you won't have to worry about this stuff going bad. Even if you open it and you see a little separation all you have to do is stir it using the application brush that comes attached to the lid.

My dad's original bottle of this stuff finally ran out after 30+ years.

My dad's original bottle of this stuff finally ran out after 30+ years. This stuff seems a little different (I'm sure they've changed providers, etc for the various compounds used), but still seems good to me. Or maybe the other stuff was just so old that the grease's properties had changed over time. It's likely. At any rate, all set for another 30+ years, hopefully!

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