Features:

  • Paint, prime and convert rust in one step - water based rust converter with latex metal primer
  • Restore metal surfaces, extend life of metal equipment by protecting it from rust and corrosion
  • Non-flammable and non-corrosive, water-based formula cleans up with just soap and water
  • Easy to apply - brush, roll or spray; apply at 8-10 mils wet for 200-250 sq ft per gallon coverage
  • Use for all marine, automotive, general household and industrial applications
  • Also available in gallon or 5-gallon
Newly "converted" fan of Corroseal!

I recently discovered Corroseal while researching rust mediation products on Amazon. Although I had not heard of this product previously, and it seemed a little pricey, I decided to give it a try based on the reviews. Boy am I glad I did! My test subject is a recently purchased 1999 F250 pickup. The truck was originally from Michigan, so I knew ahead of time that there would be rust issues. The first areas to be treated were the inside and outside of the door bottoms. Applied with a 2" bristle brush and 30 minutes later any rust that was present had turned from rust red to black magnetite. Moving on, I pressure washed the back half of the frame where the rust is most pronounced with a citrus based degreaser. Once it was dry I brushed on two coats or Corroseal with the 2" disposable bristle brush. Again, the rust was replaced with the black magnetite in less than an hour. It is important that loose or scaly rust is removed prior to applying the Corroseal, making sure to work it into any cracks or crevices. Once the whole frame is converted I plan to paint it with a Rustoleum oil based paint. Two quarts of Corroseal should do the job with enough left over for the mower deck, patio furniture, etc.. Much easier and more cost effective than sand blasting and I believe that the finished product will be comparable.

I have used a LOT of rust converters and this is by far the BEST - hands down

Used yesterday on a wheelbarrow! Painted it on and it turned grey, dark grey and then black. It dries as though it has been sealed. Very interesting! When fully dried, I applied a coat of Flex Seal, liquid rubber to the entire basin of my wheelbarrow. No more rust is the end goal!!! I have used a LOT of rust converters and this is by far the BEST - hands down. GET IT!!!!

Restoring a utility trailer using Corroseal!!

I have a 15 year old utility trailer which sits outside in the elements in south central Florida. Needless to say it is pretty rusty. In fact I was going to give it away and buy a new one. Then I ran across this product and decided to give it a try. Also I decided to do this in July and August which is our rainy season and very hot and humid conditions. So I put the trailer on blocks so I could get under it. Then I pressure cleaned it. Also I did some grinding with a wire brush attachment on my cordless drill. And sanding mostly on the fenders which were the worst. Then I began applying the Corroseal. Mostly I applied it with foam brushes. When it interacts with the rust it turns purplish black, otherwise just black. If it rains that which has been applied that day will tend to turn milky white but then as the moisture dries out of it - it turns purplish black again. It never rained until the Corroseal I applied had been set up for at least a couple of hours. Actually it only rained on my party a couple of times - probably three. Then when I applied DoItBest's version of Rustoleum over the Corroseal. I used flat black which actually came out very nice. There was a small hole in one fender and I cut out a piece of galvanized sheet metal I had laying aroung and epoxied it over the hole. Worked pretty good. I am writing this review 5 months later and have to say I am very happy with the project and now my trailer will take the elements much better.

Using Corroseal on patio furniture

This is a great product, as others have said. I'm writing this review to provide some extra information for those who are applying Corroseal: I am in the process of applying the product to wrought-iron patio furniture. The consistency of the product is quite thin, but it must be applied in a heavy layer to areas of rust. This means you cannot apply it to vertical surfaces as you would paint (it will drip off and not seal) - instead, you need to apply it to flat surfaces only, and therefore will need to reposition an object after the initial coat sets so that you can coat other surfaces. In my case, this means coating the seat of the chair, waiting for it to dry, laying the chair flat to coat its back, and so forth. I've been using a small sponge brush which is doing a very good job. The product dries fairly quickly and, as others have said, performs alchemy. Usual precautions, clean up with soap and water.

AMAZING!!

This stuff was Absolutely perfect for my project. I used it on the cast iron of an antique sewing machine. Check the picture where I brushed half of the pedal with the converter and left the other half as it was for comparison. I brushed the rust converter, left it to dry and was done. No scrubbing, no buffing, no wire brush. Turned my work that would have been beyond tedious into a piece of cake. I haven’t used it on anything except cast iron yet but was an Excellent product for my project.

Really Like This Product

Really Like This Product. Used it for front step Iron Railings. The railings look the best they ever have. Sanded them first with a brush-screwgun type sander then power washed them and let dry. Then Corrosealed. They came out great - I almost did not need to paint the black with rustoleum paint but painted them later anyway. I Hope this lasts for a good number of years. Also, this product was great for garden statues made of metal. I've posted two squirrels statues I had. One coated with Corroseal, the other without. What a difference. The Corroseal coated statue came out jet black and looks nice. The photo shows one with and the other without corroseal. No paint.

Fantastic stuff when you use it correctly!

I found the only times it didn't take well was when I applied it to surfaces with too heavy of a layer of corrosion and dirt. Simply sanding off those areas better and reapplying the product returned much better results. Also, it's important to note that 24 hrs. dry/ cure time is not just a suggestion; and, it has been my experience that under 60 degrees Fahrenheit, 36-48 hrs. is required to properly cure this product. Once those conditions are met, this stuff worked as well as - if not better than - a few expensive name brands I compared it to. If you want to protect something from corrosion and oxidation for a reasonable price, this stuff is hard to beat.

It works well!

Just used this on my 1994 Jeep floorboards. My Jeep spent most of its life salt-free in Wyoming, so its a rare Wrangler with no structural rust. However, it had some rust on the drivers side floorboard from water getting in and pooling there under the carpet. Two applications of Corroseal turned all the rust black and made a primer-like surface. I spray painted Rustoleum bedliner overtop of it and did the underside just for a little added protection. The results look great (in rough and ready Jeep with patina terms :). ). I’ll be surprised if it doesn’t stand the test of time. It is hard to imagine any rust getting going again. Rather expect the water to just puddle on the surface and be easily drained or wiped up.

Magic in a Bottle

It was like watching magic as my 100+ yrs old treadle sewing machine iron frame and treadle went from lifeless dull to a shining black as if new! Can't wait to refurbish my other treadle! Haven't used it on anything else, so can't say how it would act on other metal, but if it works, you won't be disappointed.

Worth every penny.

Wow. I used this product a long time ago on a ship I worked on... fast forward a decade... I bought an old work truck recently and it was in nice shape but the frame was a bit crusty. Bought this in hopes of stopping rust and sealing it up. Can’t belive HOW WELL it worked for me. Prep was just a quick scrub with a wire brush by hand, then application a used a decent quality 3” brush. The finish it left after it cured is unbelievable, it’s jet black and hard as a rock. The good thing is the black color helped make any spots I missed reallllly obvious. Any spots there’s oil or fluid on you need to clean that off with a degreaser or something, the pumpkin on my rear axle was oily and it did not stick or cure to it. Clean, scrub (don’t have to go nuts) and slap it on. I bought a quart the first time and it was just enough but I wish I had more so I bought a gallon to finish and do another vehicle. Amazing product.

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