Features:

  • Dicor Butyl Tape - Ideal for sealing uniquely shaped joints
  • Installs quickly, without gaps
  • Apply along unusual patterns
  • Because the sealant is on a continuous roll, installer can work fast and be virtually assured that there are no skips or runs in the seal
  • 1/8 Inch x 3/4 Inch x 30 Feet
Very helpful for those Odd Little Cracks & Holes.....

Very easy to utilize. And Very helpful for those Odd Little Cracks & Holes found All around my RV. Maybe next year I will re-caulk the old deteriorating seam-caulk areas, but for now I have filled various-sized (albeit kinda small) gaping spots with this Butyl tape. It's sortof like modelling clay, but lighter. I'm a Hands on kinda gal & must admit it's actually Fun, actually, to roll it and shape it to fit the spaces as needed... Would be useful for many other applications, I'm sure.

Butyl tape is easy to apply, easy to remove and very forgiving

I stripped down and rebuilt my 1972 truck camper removing all the siding down to the studs as well as all the fixtures like vents, windows and jack mounts. I used 14 rolls of this tape to seal it all back up. Things learned... 1. For the love of god don't use silicone to seal anything on your camper. When it fails nothing else will stick to it and it's pretty much impossible to completely remove with anything short of a wire wheel. 2. There is a sweet spot when it comes to the operating temperature of butyl tape. If it's too warm it will stick to everything including your fingers. If its warm and you roll out a long length it will easily stick to itself before you can apply it to anything. If it's too cold it won't stick and it's difficult to work because it's so stiff. If you apply it on a cold day and then tighen down whatever it is your trying to seal, later on when it warms it will squish out again and you will have to trim off the excess again. I often put my rolls of tape in the fridge for a bit on hot days and on heater vent in the winter. 3. I find that it's easiest to apply the tape to the object you wish to bond and not the surface you wish to mount it on. You should also dry fit the item you wish to seal first so you can identify any spots that may require extra layers od tape. Especially on corrugated aluminum. In that case I will apply tape generously to the voids on the mounted surface side. 4. Speaking of that, don't be afraid to use more than one layer of butyl tape. this tape is thin and you want ensure that all of the tape engages both surfaces and that you get a fair amount of squish that you then come back and trim off. 5. Like I said, the tape is far thinner than what they used at the camper factory. Figure for double what you think you will need. It takes lots and lots of tape if your camper is corrugated aluminum but not so much if it's flat sided fiberglass. 6. When it comes to trimming, give it some time to do its thing. At least over night. Then pick a nice cool day or early morning to trim off the excess. Its easy to make nice clean cuts as nice as when it came out of the factory whne the tape is nice and cool. In a perfect world you would let your freshly applied Butyle tape get nice and warm at least once and then trim it off when it gets cool again. You want it to squish out as much as possible before trimming.

Great stuff!! Used it for Slide-In truck camper ventilation fan installation

Some super tacky sealant, seals really well..bonds to both surfaces without issue. I used it for a slide-in truck camper ventilation fan installation and I never had once ounce of issue afterwards.

does a great job sealing the little outside cracks / leaks on trailer - update

I have been using this stuff to shore up the seams, seals, areas around light fixtures on the outside of my RV. In my opinion, it's perfect, I can shape it like putty in the size and shape I want with my fingers and it goes along and creates a really nice seal. for whatever reason by accident i had silicone spray recently on my hand and that actually helped me a lot in not getting this stuck to my fingers while I was custom molding it to some select areas around the RV. my roof was in generally good shape but this was great for some shady areas that just needed shoring up. For one area on the back window, I applied it to a corner exterior of the window seam in a place where I suspected water was leeching and that problem has been solved, water no longer comes through the back window. That was over two years ago. The picture here is what that looks like about two years later. I cannot comment on how great it is technically. Someone with a degree in materials science can explain why this is apparently a good product for exterior RV uses but as far as I am concerned, it molds on great. I got the gray kind but so what it's a little gray .... I am much more concerned about the quality of the seal and could care less about color. It is also not all that noticeable. I can say now that after a couple years it just kind of looks like grey silly putty but has not been washed away or otherwise compromised. Disclaimer. I am a total amateur at this RV thing and have only nominal or no idea what I am doing but this stuff seems really great, like if you were all off a sudden got some roof leak, this stuff seems like it could be the total bomb. if you think it is sticky to work with, try spraying your hands with a little silicone and it will allow you to mold this stuff without getting it stuck to your hands UPDATE: over a year and a half after doing the repairs with this stuff, the repairs are holding nicely although this picks up a little dirt so some discoloration but that's quite minor compared to a leak

A "Must Have" for all RV owners.

Every RV installation comes with the worry of how to keep out moisture. The basic butyl seal is primary in EVERY installation. Lay a bead of this stuff around the hole and screw down whatever your installing through the bead and watch it ooze out the edge. This is good stuff. If 3//4" isn't wide enough for you, lay a second strip along side the first and trim where needed. Don't throw out the scraps. "Ball" it up and save it for those areas you only need a pinch here and there. You'd be surprised how handy it is for all kinds of jobs around the garage. For roof installations also use a Dicor self leveling sealant over the screws and edges for the best results.

This is the stuff! (Sticks to everything) UPDATED....

Working out great to seal up all the work I'm doing on the trailer.... I need more now! It's been about 6 months since I last ordered a roll of the DICOR stuff. Since work is continuing on the trailer and I needed more butyl tape, I stopped by my local ACE Hardware and bought a roll there. I can't even remember the name brand they are selling but it just doesn't hold a candle to this stuff! The Dicor tape frustrated me at first because it was so sticky. It stuck to my fingers, the wax paper stuck to the tape and once I had it on whatever I wanted to seal, it was hard to straighten back out. Well, after using it and then using the other stuff, it's obvious that the Dicor product is a far better product.

like running lights

Use this tape on your RV when you need a sticky putty to seal around objects attached to the outside of your RV, like running lights, water inlet, electrical plugs, window replacement , etc. An excellent putty, and it has excellent adhesive qualities, and it does not harden so it can be removed with a putty knife if necessary.

DIY RV window repair worked out great.

1st time using it. Worked great. Resealed a front window on a 26 year old class C motor home that was dripping water into the interior. Several key points. I was working with a flat smooth surface. I put the seal tape in the refrigerator due to the hot muggy evening weather. Clean all surfaces very well. Mineral spirits, scraper and window cleaner did the job. Get all the old seal material off the surfaces. Beware it does stretch easily so position it correctly the first time. Also note it will stretch as you remove the paper backing. Apply it to surfaces first then remove the backing. I found the window frame screws were also rusting so I replaced them with #10 1 inch stainless steel screws. Drove them in lightly with a screw gun and then hand tightened the screws down until the new seal tape extruded and the screws were snug. It is raining now and no more leaking. I will trim up the excess seal tape once the rain stops. The job from start to finish took about 2 1/2 hours. Cleaning all the surfaces in which the seal tape needs to come into contact with is a bit tedious and time. consuming but well worth the effort to know there is no water leaking under the window frame. I was quoted $200 to reseal the window. I spent less than $30 using a single roll of seal tape and stainless steel screws. Saving $170's was worth the DIY effort.

Sealing tape that's sealing well.

I put this behind a little rain gutter over my fold down beds that was previously leaking, even while the beds were stowed. I just put the screws in the gutter, put this around it, then screwed it on the rest of the way with this putty tape all around all the screws, and trimmed as needed once firmly in place. It's now been raining like CRAZY for the past week and the leak is no more. Great! Also used it on a roof vent replacement since I had plenty. Same story there. Bone dry on the inside.

Just to be safe, order wider than you think you need. It is the correct width from the manufacturer just read the review.

Used this on my window resealing and roof vents. Make sure you order it a little wider than you think you need. You can always scrape it off if too much is sticking out. Not a good idea to have it too small especially around the corners. Remember, when you do the corners, it tends to stretch the tape thin making and narrow at the corners. That's why I say to order a little wider than you think. No sense in performing the job if you're going to have a leak in a few months. Better safe than sorry.

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