Features:

  • ACTIVE GUARDING – Proactively shields vintage trucks and automobiles underbody surfaces including frames, floorboards, engine compartments, trunk areas, under fenders, fire walls, rocker panels, behind bumpers, etc.
  • GENERAL MAINTENANCE – The UCP99 Gloss Black is the industry’s standard in high performance rust guard. Chassis paint finish wont crack, chip, flake, or peel. Protects from hard weather; snow, rain, mud, and dirt.
  • EASY TO APPLY – Make contact directly to rust spots or places to protect against rust; only requires minimal surface preparation using a wire brush; no hardeners, topcoats, primers, activators required.
  • UNAFFTECTED BY OTHER SUBSTANCES – This formula is unstoppable! Chassis Saver is unchanged by diesel fuel, gasoline, road salt, oils, solvents, corrosives, battery acids, hydraulic fluids, or chemicals.
  • COMMITTED TO TOTAL STATISFACTION - Under the harshest condition, Chassis Saver has proven itself for over 10 years! Over 350 townships, local DOT fleet maintenance and public works departments use Chassis Saver.
Great product as long as you plan out application due to cure time!

This product is fantastic! Use Xylene for cleanup. Have a good respirator to wear along with a paint suit. I purchased my hooded suit for 12 bucks at Home Depot. The secret to keep the lid from welding itself to the can is to coat the rim on the lid with Vaseline. Lid never got stuck. I do the same when I store chassis saver in glass pickle jars. Coat the outer threads of the glass with Vaseline. I hope this idea helps others. I did a clean job of applying the Vaseline as to not contaminate the Chassi Saver.

Super product!

Great product that is very durable. A good tip I found on youtube was to shake the heck out of the can, then rather than removing the lid, punch two holes through the lid (one to pour, the other to vent). You can then pour the amount of product you need into your application tray. Next, clean off any spillage from the top of the can and tape the holes over with aluminum tape for duct work. This method will allow to use all of the contents without the hassles of the lid sticking to the can. Make sure you wear protective clothing and gloves.

Highly recommend it. Will post photos

Purchased product after using Por 15,Eastwoods Chassis Black ,and rustoleum black.Sand blasted small frame components as upper and lower a frames,spindles etc..Cleaned parts with 4 parts distilled white wine vinegar and 1 part mineriel free water.available at most grocery stores.(pieces were to bare metal no epoxy primer,sealer,etc.) mixed chassis black 8 oz. to .750 oz. of s8 reducer.mixed well.Used a Harbor Fr---t cheap ($ 16) hvlp 1.4 paint gun.4" fan and 35 lbs pressure at the gun ,not the nozzle.Temperature was 80*f in the shop with the ac on. Results; smooth,run free,high gloss,mirror finish.harf to the touch 2 hours after shooting.Appearence and gloss are A-1 quality.Exceeds the other 3 products in all areas.price,ease of applying.etc.. Warning; Follow safety cautions to the letter.Dressed out with a long sleeve hoody,long denim paints,face mask and a quality respirator.took 30 minutes to spray frame,34 ford coupe,upper,lower a-frame,torsion arrms and 2 coats on the narrowed rear,plus shot the entire frame .All with 1 coat.Used only 8 ounces 1 ounce of s-8.finish is superb.have enough left over to do a second coat Monday.Very very impressed with this product.Highly recommend it.Will post photos Monday

Very happy with this stuff

Very happy with this stuff. Did a lot of research before choosing this over POR-15. Applied to the engine bay of my vintage mustang, which has previously been coated with this textured rock gaurd stuff. The Satin black has just enough sheen to make it showy, without being gawdy. Using the S8 thinner and a brush, this stuff self-levels pretty well. I did have brush strokes in a few places, but overall there are barely any. I would brush this (vs spraying) 9 times out of 10, just for the ease of clean up and ability to avoid over spray. Drys to a rock hard coat that is not easily chipped. Prep work was easy, I sprayed it down with brake clean, scuffed or lightly sanded where absolutely necessary, and spread it on. No issues with adhesion. I was worried this stuff would be finicky. Would (and will) buy again.

Best Chassis Undercoating / It Can Be Messy

Messy as heck, if you are not careful, and you will still get some on you. You are not going to wash it off. No Sir. Best chassis undercoating on the market though. I painted it on after a grueling wire wheel(s) scrub down, and then, paint brushed on Corroseal Rust Converter first. After Corroseal did its thing, and laid down a primer, (about 24 hours) I was ready for Chassis Saver. Used a brush to apply it to the chassis. Did not really take that long by hand, and I think it is a far safer way to apply Chassis Saver, as opposed to a spray gun. It has been close to a year now and my 2002 Sierra 2500 chassis is in great shape.

Well Worth the Money

This seems to be a fantastic product so far, and seems to go a long way, with respect to coverage. It applies nicely with a brush, and flows into a smooth finish. It was supposed to be satin, though it resembles high-gloss; I can live with that. I would highly recommend this product, though a few words to the wise: 1.) Be fully prepared with rubber gloves, mask for fumes, rags, reducer or mineral spirits, etc. before working with this stuff; it is unforgiving. If you track it in the house, you will be buying your wife new carpet. 2.) When done, thoroughly clean the can groove and lid before putting the lid back on, or don't plan on getting it off easily, if at all. I ended up putting mine in a sturdy plastic container. 3.) It seems to coat well over (properly prepared) rusty surfaces, though when applying it to cleaner metal, it covered better if the metal was primed first. Upon reuse, you may find that a thin coat has dried on the top. I accepted that as normal, and just skimmed it off.

Buy it

I used this on my ford ranger. The frame was very rusty. I removed the flaky loose rust with a wire wheel, and didn't remove the surface rust (per instructions). I applied the 1st coat with a brush because I had forgotten how much I hate painting above my head lol. The 2nd coat I sprayed. Lots of runs & drips but that's my fault. The coating is very hard yet flexible. 1 gallon covered my 2000 ranger frame, springs, spare wheel mount etc. With 2 coats. I had done a few test pieces and noticed that the paint really coats rusty metal very well. DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN. If you do, wash it off with acetone NOT WATER immediately or wear it for a month. Same goes for your sprayer: acetone, not water. Don't bother prying the lid off. It's glued on and you don't want to open it anyway. Punch one hole to pour / stir and one hole to vent. I stuck a bent rod in the hole and stirred with a drill. When done, cover holes with foil tape. I used a $25 harbor freight electric paint gun. I was very pleasantly surprised at how well this worked. Used a .03 tip (supplied) and diluted with about 2 - 5% acetone. I did not test spray the undiluted paint fyi.

Better than some better known brands.

I’m not sure how long this will do it’s job I’ve only had it on for 3 months but it looks the same so far. It goes on good with a bristle brush. I believe the directions said to use foam brushes. They are crap and fall apart immediately, I use the cheapest bristle brushes and they last and apply the paint good. I do use a bit of thinner in it, I use xylene solvent as recommended by chassis saver or you can use their own reducer. You can reduce with 10 percent reducer I believe and it is enough for the paint to flow out without brush marks in it. Also it is good to have one of these thinners on hand for spills and if you get the paint on your skin there is no way of getting it off without it. While I normally wouldn’t tell someone to put solvents on your skin it might be an option if you don’t want to wear this paint for weeks while it wears off. Oh and try to make sure the surface your putting it on is clean and free of oils,gas,grease etc. you might get some “fish eyes” when it’s curing. I did in one spot.

If rust isn't your color of choice!

Great stuff for rusty metal. We use on our dump trailers that have many miles and years on them. But you will need to coat with a top coat of some kind. POR15 or industrial/farm implement paint, many different brands available. TSC sells some at good prices. That's if you want deep black finish to last. Over time, the sunlight fades Chassis Saver to a gray color. Still holds up nice, but sun fade. Tried painting inside of dump, but that was a waste of time and money. Shingles just ripped paint right off when dumped. Exterior looks great still and rust free. We rolled on and used brushes for tight spots. Thought about spraying, but you lose paint from overspray, plus it would need thinning to pass through a gun. So two thumbs up on this paint! Update 08-31-20 Well 3/4 of the way through our busy season with roofing and no signs of rust to date. We have newer trailers we purchased after painting a couple of trailers with Chassis Saver, and the new trailers have more rust than the painted trailers. Chassis Saver with topcoat applied trailers are holding up superbly! Not as shiny as the new trailers, but no rust either!! Really is a good quality paint for rusted metal. Two thumbs up on Chassis Saver.👍👍

Turned out great!

I sprayed this on with an optima hvlp spray gun. Had bed off truck. I used almost the whole gallon. I only had the truck a few weeks before selling it so I cant attest to its longevity but a neighbor came over and tried to scratch it off and was impressed with how hard it was. I just got a chevrolet truck and plan on using it on it also as i have to take the factory bed off to replace with flat bed. Key to putting this on as with any paint is having it clean. I have a steam washer that I used on the truck first. Then went over the rough spots with an air hammer to knock off the big loose chunks. Your only kidding yourself if you don't knock those big chunks off first. My dad owned a paint and body shop for 30 years so I growed up around body work. This company has been in a business for awhile so with that said, doubt they would be in business if this was not a good product.

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