Features:

  • Services Pitman Arm, Tie Rod and Ball Joints
  • Comes in a Sturdy Blow mold Case
  • Includes: Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller, Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Ball Joint/Tie Rod End Remover, Ball Joint/Tie Rod End Remover
  • Comfortable insulated vinyl handles
Excellent product

I have read reviews of this product and the same product from other brands stating how they break during use. Having used this product, and knowing how to use it, I do not see how this product will break during proper use. I do fault the brand for not providing more detailed instruction on how to use it. When applied to even the most stubborn of ball joints, there is little force needed to be applied to cause a separation. It is also worth noting that impact should not be needed on this item, and although I am not aware of the manufacturer recommendations, I would say you should not use impact with this, hand turn only. First make sure you are using appropriately, where your application requires a 7/8" fork opening. Be sure to lubricate the ball joint with something similar to PB Blaster and use a solid ball peen hammer to the control arm (as long as it is not aluminum) and apply pressure from this tool as (or if) needed. This tool should last most a lifetime with no issues. It comes is a nice blow molded case, but it is only one piece so a case is really not needed to keep parts together. This tool comes with a limited lifetime warranty and the company is easy to deal with, family owned, and dedicated to customer service. This is based on my own personal experience and not something I have heard or read.

the best

This is what you need for a stuck on ball joint. Should work well on a semi-truck even! I tried --1st to hammer it out, as many do. Then borrow neighbors cheap puller. 3rd--auto parts store free rental 2-jaw puller. 4th-- back to auto store to get another type that I did not notice the first time. After those 4 tries, nearly damaged the threads on ball joint from all the pressure applied. Lucky was able to clean up with a thread die. Ordered this and with still much pressure it popped out. This type of remover is different in that, the bolt that applies the pressure while turning is NOT on your ball joint---with no movement it just pushes the threaded bolt out---much less risk of damage to threads. Very heavy duty---don't see this ever braking. And another tip is to oil the threads on this before using --less metal to metal under stress as that is where this would wear out eventually, maybe?

This tool is a must have for ball joint, drag link replacement on a Jeep '07-'18!

I used this tool to remove the drag link from Pitman Arm, and tie rod end from knuckle when replacing my bent drag link on Jeep JK 2012. It worked like a charm. Those were TIGHT! I used 1/2" Craftsman ratchet. Tightened down easy, never really had to strain cranking the wrench. I Waited a bit after tightening and.........BOOM! Came loose with extreme force. I didn't even have to smack the Pitman Arm or Knuckle. Leave the nut on so it doesn't send the ball joint flying! I held onto the tool loosely to catch it. Be sure to grease the threads of both the large bolt and the smaller one. I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease. The bottom pronged portion goes under the dust boot and against the Pitman arm. You don't have to have the prongs all the way in to the back of the slot. If you can get the end of the top arm completely over the ball joint shaft, that is good enough. ZERO damage to tool, or ball joints, didn't cut the dust/grease boots either. In most cases you can tap the bottom U shaped end all the way in with a plastic deadblow hammer. I had OTC tools suspension/steering kit, but decided to get this hydraulic puller after reading reviews. Man am I glad I did! Worth every cent! Built like a tank, will give life time of service and has lifetime warranty! Can't beat it! NO TROUBLE WITH ROOM TO USE THIS TOOL! MY JEEP is factory, no lift too. I can't say about knuckle yoke/swing arm upper and lower ball joints, since I haven't used it on them yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work for them just as well. Note, if your ball joints have Allen wrench hex in top of threaded portion, take care to have nut up beyond that, so you don't distort or damage it, or you may have trouble getting the Allen wrench to fit. This thing is a monster, it will "POP" those joints out with extreme prejudice, even if it has to mangle the threaded shaft or the nut a bit! TIP I kept a used buggered up nut that I use the puller on. Same size nut fits all my ball joints on the Jeep JK. That way I don't bugger up a flanged locknut I want to reuse. I used this puller to remove the tie rod as well. This one tool removed all the ball joints on drag link, tie rod ends, pitman arm. Popped the ball joints on the Drag Link at knuckle and Pitman Arm, popped the ball joints on the tie rod ends, no troubles. Works just like the drawing of Jeep maintenance tool, only one heck of a lot easier. Just tighten the big screw till you feel good resistance, then crank the small screw, and the grease will pop that ball joint out with hydraulic action easy-peasy! Just lube the threads good. I didn't need to hit the pitman arm or knuckles with a dead blow hammer. I just cranked with 1/2" ratchet till pretty tight. Waited a few seconds, and BOOM! Off they came. I've got OTC tool kit of pullers, never had to use any of them. This one tool does it all, and does it easier. Best money I ever spent on a suspension tool. I will post some more pictures soon.

The Best for popping ball joints - This one actually works

We tried several cheaper options and this ones actually works. We tried a couple of the 10 to 20 dollar ones that are U-shaped with hooks on the end (Autozone and O-Reilly) and they could not budge the lower ball joint; the cheaper tools just bent. Using an IR air wrench that generates 1350 ft lbs of torgue we carefully and slowly put each U-shaped tool to the test. They both failed and bent, before they could pop the ball joint. The lower ball joint on a Nissan truck is really large and really tough to get out, so we finally paid the bucks and got one that works. The two stage system uses a large bolt to tighten up against the ball joint bolt/nut and a small bolt to apply the force to pop the ball joint. The small bolt used to pop the joint can by tightened by using a small 1/4 inch hand ratchet - no air wrench required. For safety remember to leave the ball joint nut on the ball joint bolt when you use the tool; or the ball joint could go flying out and possibly hurt someone when it pops. The nut holds it in place so that it only moves a half inch or so. Pic 1 shows the tool. Pic 2 shows the tool tightened on the ball joint bolt/nut. Pic 3 shows the ball joint bolt/nut after it popped.

Makes DIY car work much easier.

I used to fret any DIY car work which involved popping out ball joints. I've ripped enough ball joint boots and hurt myself plenty of times using a pickle fork. When I needed to take the knuckles off of my 2001 accord with three ball joints per side to replace wheel bearings, I needed a different solution. I was looking at the similar non-hydraulic OEM style ball joint separators when I found this tool. Ordered it on a whim because it looks much tougher than other screw type ball joint separators and the hydraulic action seemed like a great feature to smooth out the intense amount of pressure it takes to pop out a ball joint. I am so glad I bought this tool, It makes popping ball joints, one of the more difficult tasks of home car maintenance a complete breeze. I greased all the threads, hinge and metal contact points before use. It disassembles easily. Using the tool is intuitive. The hydraulic action is just as I expected, it takes very little effort of turning the smaller screw to get the ball joints to release. I would estimate this tool saved me at least an hour, probably more when I replaced wheel bearings. It will see much more use in the future, I no longer fret having to remove ball joints and think it will hold up a long time. I'm only sad that I did not receive a hard case for the tool as mentioned in other reviews; no big deal, I still think this is a five star tool.

Easy to use and sturdy tool!

Before I bought this, I was using the low cost Harbor Freight one. I only used the Harbor Freight tool one time on the left/right side because it was difficult to use and was close to breaking. It was difficult to keep on the ball joint as it wanted to twist off as you tightened it. However, with this part removing ball joints was unexpectedly easy! I've used it a few times and it never wanted to twist off as you tightened it and I've never had to use the hydraulic part of it because the ball joints always came loose without needing it. It's a very sturdy tool and makes front end work easy. But, it's really for the larger ball joints on passenger cars and not the smaller size. For example, on my Chrysler 300 it works great on the lower ball joints but, it's too big to use on the upper ball joints.

It really works!

The hydraulic part of this believe it or not is the smaller 12mm screw that pushes the shiny conical pin. There is grease in there which does not compress and does push up using "hydraulic" force. This tool is incredibly beefy and a much better design than the old model which puts all the stress on the threads of the forcing screw. This tool truly does save the rubber boots of ball joints if that is your goal and no hammering away of the steering knuckle. The jaws open up to a maximum length of 60mm, so plan accordingly if this size is what you need. As a precautionary measure, be extremely aware where the steering knuckle will fall once the ball joint will separate because it will separate really fast.

A Beast to Behold

Having considered the reviews on this tool I went ahead and took the plunge and shelled out the bucks to buy it despite my previous experience with a similar tool to no satisfaction. The previous tool which this one has replaced was much cheaper but not only in price, which adds validity to the ole saying, "you get what you pay for." The tool bent when trying to remove the ball-joint instead of the opposite. But this tool was impressive straight out the box! The heft and weight gave me immediate confidence. The hydraulic screw only needed an opportunity to prove itself to me, And it did on the very next day. Once applied and secured to the ball-joint and a few twist of the hydraulic screw and...booom! The joint was released and I'm glad for it. This is a great tool short of buying an air tool; very mobile and easy to carry. No need to lug around air cylinders and such. Great for the cost. Paid a good price, got a good tool.

Heavy duty

I was a little apprehensive looking at this item on Amazon. It didn't look that sturdy but I'm here to tell you, It's heavy duty. I beat on this thing to get it into position and didn't hurt it a bit. My tie rods popped off with ease. No more heating them up and beating on them. Buy this product and save you some time. One thing not to do is leave the loose nut on before you pop it free. It's not easy to take off the nut, after it's loose. My project was a 73 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4.

Paid for itself first use!!!

Takes a lot to impress me, and this tool did it. I have always used a pry fork to separate tie rods, knuckles, whatever, because I was replacing the ball joint and did not care that I destroyed the boot. I needed to separate a knuckle that had an almost new ball joint already in place. Wow, this tool did the job perfectly. My tip, crank it down until it gets almost to the point where you think it might break, Then wait a few seconds. Then give it maybe a 1/8 turn more, and pow, it separates. I even used this on a tie rod I am replacing. It just makes the job so much easier. And pay the extra 2 dollars, compared to others, so you can have a case to keep it in, and not lose it in your pile of other tools.

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