Features:

  • For use on headlights, taillights, fog, and directional lights
  • Kit contains sanding discs and polishing pad with compound
  • Saves 100s versus purchasing a new headlight
  • Improves the appearance of a car - with "like new" headlights
  • Restores cloudy and dull lenses
  • No power tools needed, so it can be completed easily by hand
  • Restores cloudy and dull lenses
  • Can be used on trailers, snowmobiles, emergency vehicle light bars, plastic motorcycle light and other plastic lenses
  • Helps improve nighttime visibility and appearance of vehicle
  • Contains 6 sanding discs, 4 finishing discs, 2 refining disc, 2-1 oz rubbing compound, and 1 foam pad
Great Result

Works great, just time consuming hand work. I DID think I had ordered the kit that used a drill. I read the listing wrong. For the second headlight, and motorcycle windshield, I bought a drill attachment from Harbor freight and used the 3m kit's materials. I didn't even realize my headlights had begun to yellow until I started sanding them. If your lights aren't REALLY bad with chips/scratches or layers of plastic missing, skip the low grit sandpaper... it makes a MARGINAL improvement for LOTS more work later on. Using the low grit paper means you have to double down on your time with the higher grits to make sure you get all the scratches out. Especially with my lights that aren't flat/convex. Mine was mostly baked on bug guts and chips/pitting. No scratches or anything that looked like flaking clear coat. You can't tell a difference in skipping the lower grits unless you put your head up to the lens to see whats left of the pits. Keep in mind that my pics have a VERY bright twin 4ft LED tube light that shows every spot. Lights will yellow MUCH quicker after being polished because they don't have the UV protective layer like they did from the factory. You need to coat/cover them in something. Options are clear bra/vinyl, wax, ceramic coating, spray on headlight sealer, paint on sealer. Just research to see which you want to try.

Fix Fogged Acrylic Headlight Lens

Our 10 year old Toyota Sienna was suffering from fogged headlight lenses. It was so bad that it almost failed inspection. So, I searched Amazon and found this little 3M kit. The kit has enough supplies for 2-4 headlights, depending on the level of oxidation. Restoration is easy, but it will take you about an hour's worth of elbow grease to get the job done for both headlights. You start with 500 grit sandpaper, and work through 800, 1000, and 3000 grit. The final step is rubbing compound. Results were beautiful! I did about 4 passes on each light with the 500 grit, and two passes for the rest, including the rubbing compound. You will need a small spray bottle of water for the 3000 grit, which isn't included. You will also need Windex, a couple of rags, and some paper towels. Just follow the directions, and you can't go wrong! A $10 fix that will save you $hundreds$ from the trusted 3M brand! BONUS: I'll bet this would work for removing scratches in the paint as well. I'll have to give that a try.

Works great, easy to use, compatible with drill attachment from other 3M kits

If you have already purchased the 'better' 3M kit, you will already have the drill attachment with the velcro backing. The sand paper discs that this kit comes with fit that drill attachment perfectly. All of the discs are waterproof to a certain degree and a disc that 'is no longer sanding' can be refreshed several times by washing it in water. I would even guess that if you wet sanded with all of the grits, you would end up with a better result. This is the second time that I have used one of the 3M kits, and I would guess that they are the best on the market. Each headlight should take you about 45 minutes with a drill and the aforementioned velcro attachment. I did not use the foam/velcro thing included in this kit. A drill will definitely give you better/quicker results than hand sanding. I suggest that you use several layers of masking tape around the headlight unit, as you can very easily sand through a single layer of tape. Better yet, remove the bumper/grille and any other trim around the headlight if you can. When using a drill, the 'fling' during the wet steps can be excessive, be sure to do this process outside.

It works!

I wasn't sure this would work, but it got good reviews and for $10 (lightning deal), I figured it was worth a try. The weather finally cooperated, and I was able to try it out. I was amazed at how well it worked--it did a better job than the $129 I had paid at the Honda dealer on another car. I followed the instructions closely. I put a lot of elbow grease into it. Total time spent on two front headlights was about an hour and a half. I read in some other reviews that they did it in about 20 minutes. My headlights weren't in terrible condition, but they were definintely hazed over. Not really yellow, just cloudy. But I wanted to make sure I did it right the first time, so I spent considerable time sanding and polishing. The end result was superb. I'll never go back to the dealer for this type of project again. After all was said and done, I decided to invest another $13 in the 3M synthetic wax they recommended in the kit to protect the surface of the headlights from UV rays and further hazing. It gets great reviews (80% 5 stars), so I'm optimistic.

Super Product

If you want those headlights looking new then this is the product. I was a little skeptical but with 3M's name on it I decided to give it a try. It is work. It will be a bit of a challenge for those who don't typically work with their hands. READ THE DIRECTIONS! The effort you make for quality in each step will effect the final product significantly. The headlight lenses on my 2011 Lincoln MKX weren't "yellow" - just seriously hazy. After an hour of work they both look like new. Good luck!

Wow! Headlights look brand new!

I wish I took before and after photos!! My 2008 Suzuki SX4 headlights looked awful and that the typical yellow haze. My first thought was to just buy aftermarket ebay replacement headlights (usually around $60 a pair for japanese cars). To my suprise the cheapest set of headlights for the Suzuki was $250!! So after some research i decided on this 3M kit. I took my time and followed the directions exactly. I spent a lot of time on the final step (3000 grit wet sand) to make sure it was as smooth and even as possible. After applying a few coats of rubbing compound I was amazed at the finished product! Honestly I could have probably done 2 cars with the 1 kit, i had plenty of sanding pads and compound left over. Super happy with the results. Don't hesitate to buy this product. I took my time on this and completed it in about an hour. I don't think 3M makes any bad products in my opinion!

5 stars for the price

I used this kit on a 2008 Tundra that is no garage kept. The front of the lens was cloudy with yellowing before I started and light diffusion was inadequate. I would rate the lens at a 3/10 with 1/10 being useless. The proses took about an hour for me and now I would rate the finish at a 8/10. If I had spent more time I could have gotten it to a 9/10 but I was getting tired of doing it. I give the kit a 5 star for price. I did order a polishing wheel for my drill that was $10 that I will come back and compound and polish later to get it to a 10/10. You can do 2+ sets of auto headlights with this kit. Note: The finish you get will be directly relate to the time you give the process. Also you will need a coating to protect the lenses and you will need to reapply as often as the product recommends. I have an apple calendar event every quarter that reminds me to do this now along with changing my HVAC filters in my home and some other honey-do items.

Excellent product

This was used on a 2000 Honda Civic. It has been about four years since I last used the restoration kit. If you are a cheapskate (like me) get this instead of the 3M kit with the buffer ball. The lenses were not in terrible shape so it took less than one hour to do both by hand. I don't see it taking much longer even if your lenses are pretty foggy. Idiot proof. Just follow the directions. Anyone can do it. I applied car wax after the final step and always apply wax to them whenever I wax the car (3-4 times a year). It does make a big difference and they really do look like brand new.

Like new when finished? Not quite, but the finished results are excellent...

I have a 15 y/o car that I'm trying to keep alive long enough to get my kids through college. One of the issues of late was lack of visibility at night due to the headlight lenses being yellow and foggy. I saw this on the deal of the day and purchased it on impulse. I followed the directions and started with the 500 sanding pad and all I thought the whole time was I'm going to have to get new lenses. My discomfort didn't fade until I was at the polishing compound stage of the process. Then all I could think was I wish I would have done this sooner. Others say the drill option is better, I'm not sure what the price difference between the two is, if the price is within a buck or two I'd go for the drill option but otherwise the whole process is quite easy and I'm not sure it would be worth spending much more on, but I'm cheap, otherwise I wouldn't be driving a car I need this for in the first place. One tip is before you go to the next step to use the sanding without the sponge applicator and go around the edges of the lens and transition/corner areas that the sponge doesn't quite allow full access to, it will save you from having fine scratches in these areas when finished. For those who say toothpaste will work just as well, I'm not so sure, maybe it would be suitable replacement for the polishing compound but it surely won't work as well as the sandpaper. I didn't think to take before and after pictures as I didn't expect the results would be as good as they were, now I wish I had.

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