• Spraymax 2k Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear Part # 3680061
  • Lasting high gloss
  • Very good polish ability
  • Maximum resistance to abrasion and scratching

Great material. BUT, please adhere to instructions. This stuff can cost you your health. Really surprised it is available on the open market. Is labeled to be used by professionals only. Can't stress enough to follow precautions. Body, eye, breathing instructions. Don't be macho with this product.

Took 2 cans of this to put 3 coats on a motorcycle gas tank, fenders and a few other small parts. One day later the parts looks like they are wrapped in glass over top of HOK Cobalt Blue. I got it a little heavy on one side of the tank to the point it actually dripped off, but it settled down perfectly flat. Idiot proof. N.B.: Make sure you get the $20 respirator and have good fresh air coming in/bad air out - this stuff will kill you quick!

Pros: Very shiny finish. Sprays on thick. Fairly easy to work with. I'm a beginner at painting and although this clearcoat won't hide imperfections in a mediocre paint job, it will add a glossiness that will impress the uninformed. Cons: For professional use! This is not a product for the casual user, mostly because of its toxic components. You will need goggles, a good respirator, and rubber gloves at minimum. And please get on their website and read the product info. A full body suit would be recommended too but I did without and survived. They also say that you must dispose of the gloves after 15 minutes of exposure. I highly recommend not spraying in any enclosed space. Also, note that once you mix the hardener, you have only 48 hours to use the entire product. As an amateur, if you can work within these guidelines, you'll be very happy with the results. This is shinier than any clearcoat you can find at an auto parts store. It does take a while to cure though. You won't be able to sand it until you let it sit overnight in a very warm environment so if you were thinking about sanding between coats, you'll need a can for each coat because the paint will probably harden inside the can by the time you're ready to spray.

So far, so good! I've used this on two guitars and it's outstanding. I will post pics once I'm done with them. Two words of advice: you absolutely MUST have a respirator. This stuff can kill you, it's very toxic. Also, try to spray it in as dry an environment as you can. I sprayed 3 coats the other day in my barn. I went out to get theone guitar after about 3 hours because it was going to get very cold. Well, I ended up with a bunch of fingerprints in the clear that I had to sand out. (hopefully, the next 3 layers will look perfect). The other guitar that I brough inside my workshop to dry (it was just a body, not a full neck-thru like the other one) and it was dry to the touch and hard within an hour (30% with a dehumidifier). So, a huge difference in curing based on humidity. And it was only around 50%+ humidity outside in my barn. Either way, I'm ordering 4 more cans of this stuff now.

I’ve use different brands of spray clear coat, I’m not a professional painter just a DIY guy that likes to work on my cars, and this is the best clear coat that I ever used, you can get really good results as if you used a HVLP spray gun but of course with less work and less time, prep is important a ventilated area as well as protection, this stuff is really heavy and you MUST wear eyes protection and of curse your respirator also wear long sleeves while using this product, this is the second time I’ve used and I love the way my project came out! Make sure your first coat is light and the following coat medium and last coat heavy, you might want to do 4 coats for a better result, temperature and humidity is really important, some orange peal but most of the factory paint came with orange peal so not a big deal.

Excellent automotive clear coat in a can. Undoubtedly the best I've tried. If you are only painting a single door, fender, or bumper AND don't have access to a spray gun, then this product is a great option. If you are painting a larger area, this may not be so cost effective as an actual spray gun. Please be cautious when using this product. The vapor is very harmful to your lungs. You NEED to use a respirator and have good ventilation when spraying this product. Also, as another user pointed out, be sure to thoroughly mask off all areas you are not painting. I did, and had no issues with unwanted overspray sticking where it didn't belong. Follow the directions carefully and you should be happy with the results.

So a bit of background - I build guitars and finish my own guitars. I usually do HVLP, but the customer requested urethane, so I opted for rattle cans. This was my first go-round at using urethane for a clear coat, as I had done the "typical" route of using lacquer and was frustrated with it. This. Stuff. Is. AMAZING. Four cans (yeah, way overkill) gave me the thickest, wettest, most reflective looking clear coat that I could have imagined. Sprayed VERY well and very easily - it was nearly impossible to make this sag or run. It lays on thick, it looks wet even before wetsanding and buffing, and it is EASY to work with. I will absolutely be using this stuff in the future. Two cans will clear coat a guitar - no problem. Fantastic product and worth the money for the hobbyist who does not want to invest hundreds into urethanes, catalysts, solvents, and HVLP equipment. As far as the pics - posted them to show the reflection of the clear. This is fully cured, wet sanded (600 through 3,000 grit), then buffed/polished with rubbing compound, swirl remover, and finishing polish, then hard carnauba wax after a week. You could shave in this reflection, even in my low-light garage.

What a great product. I recently built a guitar and wanted a good non-yellowing clear with no ambering of the base color (front) or wood (back). The back and neck are mahogany. I first filled the grain with a polyester resin (same stuff you use laying fiberglass), then sanded to 400 grit. the top (or front) is maple which I used a very thinned-out version of the resin to fill the grain (maple has much tighter grain to begin with) and sanded to 320. after masking, I primed the top, then sanded to 400. then laid a silver base, then alternating layers of silver metal flake and red candy clear so the metallics come through in varying shades of red. once the final color had cured, I LIGHTLY wet sanded to 600 and put about a dozen coats of this 2k front & back, about 10-15 min between. super easy to use... just wear gloves and a good respirator and work with good ventilation. Actually, I don't know exactly how many coats I put - I got 2 cans and used them both fully. after about a week to fully cure, I wet sanded down to 5000 grit, then hand buffed - something this size wasn't worth getting out the buffer. the SprayMax 2k is GREAT for small projects like this, for motorcycle tins, or for individual panels on a car... but I wouldn't do a whole car in this as it would be quite expensive to do a whole car with 2k spray bombs like this - I'd get a large can of a 2k clear with hardener and use my HVLP... but for those small projects, sometimes it's not worth setting up the gun (or have to worry about cleaning it after).

First time I have used. Amazing results on motorcycle tank and fenders painted with Rustoleum Professional Auto Enamel can purchased at Home Depot. Went on easy and buffed out to a wonderful gloss finish that looks professional. Be sure to utilize proper protective wear including 3M respirator mask, goggles, gloves, suit. Highly recommended!

This is the product for your headlight lenses. First polish with progressive paper 1000 1200 2000 then buff with colorback or similar. Give 3 or four careful sprays - dry between. This is beautiful in finish and it lasts for a long time - years!