Features:

  • AVOID A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT - An oxygen sensor spacer, spaces the oxygen sensor located after the catalytic converter out of the flow of exhaust gases. By spacing out the sensor you can attempt to avoid the check engine light from activating due to a high flow catalytic converter or test pipe.
  • FITS ALL STANDARD OXYGEN SENSORS - Most modern vehicles are fitted with M18x1.5mm threaded oxygen sensors. This spacer features M18x1.5mm threads allows you to easily screw your oxygen sensor into the spacer and then the spacer into your exhaust.
  • 90 DEGREE DESIGN FOR CLEARANCE - With a tight 90 degree design and modular fittings this oxygen spacer will fit in areas where you have limited clearance. This will avoid damage to your oxygen sensor.
  • DOZEN OF CONFIGURATIONS - This exhaust oxygen sensor spacer features the main 90 degree section plus 3 different adapters. These adapters allow you to adjust the length of the oxygen sensor spacer including the side that screws into the exhaust as well as the side that the oxygen sensor screws into.
  • RIGID STEEL CONSTRUCTION - Each pieces is constructed of mild steel to avoid cracking and excessive heat expansion. After each piece is manufactured it is coated in a durable corrosion resistant plating an polished to a mirror finish.
Worked on ‘02 CRV

I purchased this to clear CEL caused by a failing CAT. This is not intended to fix a failing CAT. A defective CAT should be removed or replaced to prevent potential engine damage. I removed my CAT and knocked all of the defective materials out of the inside making it a straight-through pipe. (Not legal for on road use). Since I had the CAT off I attached this spacer without any clearance issues. My threads were shot on the CAT, so I welded it on. It’s well made and machined of chrome plated steel. Over 1k miles without a code.

Works to clear P0420 code

After hearing multiple people in car forums say it didn't work for them I figured the cost of this is nothing compared to a $300 aftermarket catalytic converter or OEM $600 VW one. At worst, it's a $20 learning lesson. I knew from testing various items (over many months and with different diagnostic equipment) that even though the cat converter wasn't actually clogged it's efficiency was actually truly not at the specified threshold. This worked fine for me and has kept the CEL off for over 1500 miles now; whereas before if I reset it, it would come on every 75-200 miles. As others said if you have tight clearance around your O2 sensor port you may have an issue threading the elbow fitting in, mine barely fit but I did have to shift the whole exhaust system slightly to do it. The good thing is the short straight fitting (standing up in the item photo) can be used as an extension for the elbow fitting. Also, since no instructions come with it and for those of you sharp-minded people who wonder if the elbow fitting will thread in but just stop and tighten down at some random angle, the short stubby fitting on the side is a locknut with double-flats for a thin wrench - use it in conjunction with the elbow to lock it in at any orientation. This works with any deep M18-threaded oxygen sensor.

Only used the straight part, got my VW/Audi 1 ...

Only used the straight part, got my VW/Audi 1.8T to stop throwing sensor codes after everything was replaced and serviced.

Awesome Fix!!!! A+++++

I have a 99 VW Beetle and this completely fixed my issue with the oxygen sensor pending code. I had an aftermarket catalytic converter put in and the code wouldn't stay off until I installed this part! I am so thankful for this easy fix. It would have cost me hundreds to bring the car to VW. <3

Cleared P0420 for high flow cat/test pipe Volvo C30

Perfect! Very nice quality, threaded in with out issue. Chrome which isn't very "stealth" as far as inspection goes but I'll either cover with a wrap of some sort (temporarily) or hit it with some matte high temp paint to pass visual. Otherwise I had a P0420 code for the high flow cat I have in my Volvo C30 I used an extension initially but got a fault for no reading from sensor 2 removed the extension so only using the main piece and code is gone with over 100 miles put on the car. Anyone looking to rid high flow cat or test pipe, don't mind other ppl with P0420 codes that said it didn't fix there issue more than likely due to other issues involved. my car is Volvo and 2008 and it tricked my finicky ECU no problem.

With this product, my 2000 Chevy 1500 passed the emissions test!

My 2000 Chevy 1500 5.3L Z71 4WD passed the emissions test! This product was difficult to install, but it was the design of the truck not the product's fault. For the past two years I've had to use some form of trick to get through emissions testing. This year none of my tricks worked until I found this device. It moves the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream so that it does not throw a code. I had to lift the catalytic converter to make room for it to rotate past the frame and then had to lift the heat shield to rotate it past that. I used shims to get it to tighten up at the correct angle. Installed the O2 sensor, ran through the drive cycle and passed emissions test in Nashville Tennessee.

Solved the problem on my 2002 Honda Accord

I have a 2002 Honda Accord LX with the 4-cylinder ULEV (California emissions) engine. At just under 100,000 miles, I started getting a check engine light. I tried resetting the engine computer, by removing and reinserting the Clock/backup fuse from the passenger side fuse box. But the code came back on again after about 20 or 30 miles. I decided to read the Check Engine Light code by the old method that does not require a scanner: --turn off the ignition; --locate 16-pin data link connector (DLC) under dashboard at left side --short terminals 4 and 9 with a paper clip --turn ignition on --view check engine light, and count the pattern of flashes --long flash is the tens digit short flash is the units digit --thus 67 is 6 longs followed by 7 shorts (and the flash pattern will repeat indefinitely) Code 67 means "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold, malfunctioning or defective catalyst system." After some reading on Honda owner websites, I found that this is a common problem on these vehicles, occurring well before the end of lifetime for the catalytic converter. Occasionally the code will go away by replacing the secondary oxygen-sensor. As a Nippon-Denso sensor for this vehicle was available on Amazon for about $25, I tried that first. But after resetting the computer again, the code came back in under 30 miles. It was time to try the Oxygen Spacer Exhaust Extension under review here. I removed the secondary Oxygen sensor, and first tried screwing in the right-angled pipe. But the heat shield on this model gets in the way when you rotate this extender. I next tried the right-angle in combination with the two short straight pieces. The heat shield was still getting in the way of full rotation. So I decided to try a direct offset using just the two straight pieces. I also had a Dorman 42009 spark plug non-fouler set that I had bought earlier on Amazon for $6.49. This by itself cannot solve the problem, because the projection on the oxygen sensor does not fit inside it. But I decided to make use of one of the non-fouler fittings just to add a little length. After screwing in one Dorman non-fouler plus two straight pieces from this kit, the total offset was about 3 inches. I finished the installation, reset the computer, and have not seen the Check Engine Light in 200 miles. Problem solved! Total installation time under 30 minutes. Thank you ERZ Industries for an excellent product. (Note to users: Don't forget to put anti-seize lubricant on all the threads. Will make it a lot easier if you have to remove or tinker with the installation later on.)

Worked for 07 Acura TL type s!!!

This worked for my 2007 Acura TL type s. I have over 200,000 miles and have had a CEL on and off p0420 and p0430. The p0240 is for the downstream 02 sensor in rear of engine and actually very easy to access from under the car just remove transmission cover. I also bought a pack of spark plug antifoulers from auto zone and for the rear o2 season I plugged the autozone one in first then one of the attachments here then the 02 sensor (I did not want to drill that’s why I bought this product from amazon) NOTE: I dot NOT use the angled pipe just the 2 attachments - one for rear o2 sensor and one for front o2 sensor. The front o2 sensor was harder to work with as space is tight but just as easy to access from under car. Because of space issue I only used one attachment here with the 02 sensor (so one less than the rear o2 sensor) been almost a week now and no more codes! Highly recommend And totally doable as a diy project- wear gloves and take your time- good luck!

Passed emissions!!!

No more p0430 and 20 codes. It did it's job and I passed emissions. However I did not use the angled portion. I only used the two non foulers that attach because on clearance issues underneath. I could have purchased cheaper ones that didn't have the angle portion but it would have required drilling. At least with this I didn't have to do any drilling. Still a tight fit underneath for crown Victoria 08.

Worked like a charm. Very pleased.

Installed no problem 2004 Jetta wagon 2.0... Cleared CEL for downstream sensor and it has not come back on since, able to pass emissions easily. People having issues passing emissions or stopping CEL from coming on, have other problems or are not installing this on the downstream sensor (behind catalytic converter), this is not really made for an upstream sensor, you could install this on upstream to clear CEL code and pass emissions MAYBE, from what I can tell, installing this upstream will make your car run worse and probably wont clear the Upstream CEL... if you need an upstream sensor, you should replace it, thats your best bet. A bad MAF, bad plugs, or bad coils or wires could cause misfiring and other CEL issues... make sure you have checked the codes and addressed ALL the issues you have, don't blame the part if you're looking for a cheap fix and it doesnt work. If your problem is specifically the code for downstream O2... I would give this a shot.

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