• Lead Free copper silicon alloy body construction.
  • Versatile enough to use in commercial or residential applications.
  • Integral stainless steel strainer is removable for cleaning.
  • 3/4-inch NPT.
  • Maximum working pressure: 300 psi (21 bar), adjustable reduced pressure range: 25 to 75 psi (172 to 517 kPa), standard pressure setting: 50 psi (344 kPa).

My old 40 year old pressure reducing valve had output pressure of 100 psi and I was afraid of a line blowing out. I got a few fittings at HD and had the valve installed in about a hour. The pressure is now about 55-60 psi and I am happy. The valve is the same brand I had in my home before and looks like it is a quality product that will last. I can not say anything negative about this valve.

Cheaper to buy new rather then repair old unit. Ripped out the same unit installed 20 years ago and plumbed this in. This time however, instead of installation under the house where it’s very hard to service, I installed under a 19 inch landscape cover box in my main line with gauges before and after this unit, along with a new ball valve shut off with a drain between couplers to easily service this pressure valve when it fails. Without a gauge showing your pressure in the line both before and after this regulator, if the pressure regulator fails, it just bypasses and doesn’t alert you. In my case, who knows how long it wasn’t working and supplying 110 psi water pressure. That’s very hard on all solenoids and hoses and causes premature failures of hoses and solenoids, causes water hammer, and greatly increases risk of flooding due to washing machine hose failure. Normal house water pressure is about 45 to 50psi. This will save you thousands of $ to repair damage caused by flooding.

Installed myself in about an hour (removal and install). I was surprised the input side didn't have any teflon tape or pipe dope on the original. I attempted teflon tape on the new one, but it leaked. Turns out the threads are so precise, just a good, yet careful, tightening will seal it. I tightened a little at a time, checked for drips each time. The final push felt a little hard, like I might break it, but no more leaks after that.

I had the old version of this valve which had failed. It was not lead-free, so I purchased a new one instead of buying a repair kit. Was a direct replacement and did not have to modify the plumbing whatsoever. I do miss the high water pressure, but not the banging pipes and leaking faucets (due to pressure). Great price from Amazon as well.

Purchased this unit as a replacement for my older one that was leaking and causing differentiation in water pressure. Zero issues installing the unit with the right tools and this PRV operates exactly as described and is easily adjusted. I did not have to change any fittings or adapters as both ends of my older unit were both 3/4" so your mileage may vary. Great water pressure now and a happy wife!!!

My house was built in 1966 and had a Watts 3/4" U5B series pressure reducing valve. According to the Watts website, the U5B is a higher performance/capacity model than this LF25AUB-Z3 3/4", and comparing the charts on the volume @pressure, there does appear to be a difference, but it looked small at the pressures that represent my operating environment. My old U5B was no longer regulating pressure, and so everything in my house was being subjected to 120psi that comes off my street. This is relatively close to the 150psi safety release on the hotwater tank and it was wreaking havoc with anything less than contractor grade garden hoses (blowing them apart after a few months in service). I became concerned that the high pressure might also destroy a toilet/sink supply line and in the worst case, flood the house while we were gone. I tried to get a repair kit for my U5B and by all accounts I ordered the right kit, but none of the parts fit. Maybe someone accidentally swapped the parts bags between two kits while comparing, or maybe the U5B I had was so old that the design had changed a bit. For whatever reason, the bell housing dimensions on my U5B did not match the dimensions specs noted by Watts. Even though "3/4" was clearly forged in the side of the valve and the sticker on it clearly read U5B. Anyway, I don't know if the old valve was Lead-Free or not. So I decided it was worth it to just order a new valve. The direct modern replacement for the U5B is going for around $300 +/-, depending on your source, and Amazon didn't have any sources. But the LF25AUB-Z3 3/4" was $80 shipped to my door. So I took a chance and ordered it. Installation was a breeze, turned off the main supply, opened a sink to bleed the pressure off the system, shut off the hot water heater, then just backed off the old unit and put the new one in. The new one is maybe 3/16" shorter in overall length, but there is plenty of slack/give in the copper pipes I have to allow for some differences in size. It's amazing the difference this has made for my appliances and what not. We used to get pretty bad water-hammer, installing arresters helped, but did not eliminate. With the new pressure reducing valve in place there is no more water hammer, my automatic icemaker is working clog-free, and the refrigerator door water dispenser works much better. I may miss the 120psi when it comes to working outside, but so far I love the new pressure and there is room to turn it up a bit. The valve comes factory preset to 50psi and can be adjusted up to 75psi. I don't recall the lower limit. Oh, and I took the old valve apart. To my surprise the diaphragm was perfectly intact. What had failed was the bypass valve. It appears to have rotted/worn away small enough to come apart and it got trapped by the screen. And another interesting fact was that I'm quite sure that screen had never been checked in the 49ish years it had been in service and it was perfectly clean, pretty cool.

If your municipally-supplied water is over 100 psi, you need to reduce that pressure or your appliances will fail prematurely, your water heater is most especially vulnerable. I live at the lowest part of town, the pressure exceeded 120 psi. I was replacing water heaters about one every five years, washing machine and garden hoses were constantly having to be replaced, faucet and dishwasher vales failed with clock-work regularity. A neighborhood handyman had suggested this product years ago, but I thought it would so reduce water flow my shower and outdoor watering would suffer. But the repairs were getting intolerable, I had to do something. So to my surprise, after installation, water flow wasn't significantly reduced, just the excess pressure. If you've been putting this off, there is no longer any valid excuse to so. There are cheaper units, but this one is made in America and is of very high quality.

We replaced a pressure valve that was about 45 years old with this item and it has worked like a charm. All parts and pieces and instructions were included, that in its self is a miracle. The price was very reasonable and cheaper then what we could find at plumbing places. We're pretty sure it will last the next 45 years.

I'm a semi-retired service Plumber, and I'll tell you this.....you want a cleanable prefilter ahead of the regulator assembly. Most folks don't realize how much trash is in potable water. We have really high water pressure out here in the country....80-130 psi. So the local water company is always fixing leaks. Gravel and mud ain't unusual. Lay the regulator on the side, so you can unscrew the cover plate to clean out the prefilter screen. Just a thought.

Excellent quality that dropped right in in less than 30 minutes with no adjustments necessary. Cost was only slightly higher than a rebuild kit, an it goes in with much less hassle and risk than trying to rebuild the old one. I watched a few YouTube vids on installation, and it was a piece of cake ti install requiring only two large wrenches. Working perfectly after several months. Pipes no longer banging and faucets no longer leaking.