Features:

  • Problem Solver design includes premium polyurethane bushings for enhanced durability and performance.
  • Barrel nut provides proper thread engagement for easier installation.
  • Nested washers help keep bushings centered during installation.
  • Solid black anodized T6 aluminum hex spacer provides superior corrosion protection and provides easier removal.
  • Black phosphate grade 8 bolt provides superior strength and corrosion protection.
  • Black phosphate barrel nut and washers provide corrosion protection.
Not difficult to install. Actually hallow bushings.

These K700539 Stabilizer bar links had some interesting unexpected attributes. The most significant was the white fittings are hallow and not solid like the original. I kind of tossed a coin on this one vs K80631 with the blue bushing. I ended up choosing these. How they actually behave in use is hard to tell. I would have to stick a video camera down there to see how they compress and behave. They don't torque. The instructions say to tighten the bold flush... as I read them. The installed easily with an actual nut head on each side. One washer goes behind each white bushing with the top nut having the washer built in. This apparently holds the shape and evenly distributes the pressure. Did I need to replace them? The rubber on the old ones was quite hard after 13 years of heat with some cracking visible in some of them. The old ones had also compressed at an angle into fixed shape which would indicate the rubber was no longer bouncing back... if being elastic was a feature the old ones should of had.. I replaced so much of the front end suspension... which is riding incredibly well, I can only say these are contributing. The first noticeable change in driving was on a road with surface damage... for the first time in as long as I can remember the suspension absorbed the pumps going up and down without making me feel like a bobble head in the cab.

Inexpensive but effective upgrade

Could be a pain in the a$$ to do but if i can do it you can do it. Plenty of videos out there to watch. I had to cut mine off they would not come out any other way I tried! I put these on without removing my tires but you do have to jack up the truck enough to get the bolt on the threads. pretty much have to jack it up so the suspension goes up, my tires didn't leave the ground. got them on and the front feels a bit tighter. 2005 Tahoe z71 4wd

Great Product. Pain in the butt job.

I’m giving this 5 stars, but it’s not the easiest thing to install without a lift. That is not Moogs fault. Everything fits well and came with clear instructions. I’d highly recommend having a second person to help. If memory serves me from just yesterday you’ll need a size 14 and 18 socket wrench. I’d recommend deep sockets on both. The instructions don’t call for a torque wrench.

Just like new steering

I have a 2004, Chevy Avalanche, Z66, with 202,000 miles on it. Lately, I've been wrenching on it, trying to save money, and avoiding the dealership. The steering on the truck has been okay, but pulls to the right. I've had it aligned, but the pull returned. While changing the oil, I glanced over at my sway bar links, and thought I could change them out pretty easily. So, I ordered 2 of these, one for each side. I used a 14mm socket and an adjustable wrench and pulled the old ones off. Happily, they came off without any hassle. Although, I have seen videos where you have to saw them off, luckily didn't have to do that. I put the driver's side on very easily, and started on the passenger side. The sway bar link bolt came out easily, but the spacer was pinched. I knocked it out with my socket wrench. As I began to insert the new link, I could see I wouldn't have any room to put the new spacer. So, I jacked up the passenger side a few inches, and it gave me the clearance to slide everything on. I drove down to a local gas station, and I immediately noticed the steering felt stiffer, smoother, and the right-side pull was gone. I am really happy with these. Probably shouldn't have waited 11 years to change these out.

Awesome part

Great price and quality. I changed them out a month ago, yesterday I was doing an oil change and something caught my eye and after really looking at the ones I changed a month ago the rubber bushing were destroyed. After much research I found these moog stabilizer bar link I jumped on it and got them, wow what a difference in quality and so much easier to install.

Much better than cheaper standard bolts, washer and nut kits.

I replaced my Tie rod ends and ball joints about 6 months ago. The kit I bought had new links that were just long bolts with standard washers and nuts. I was looking under the truck about a month ago and both new links were gone! The nuts had apparently backed off over time (no lock washers). I ordered these because the recessed nuts are just like the Chevy OEM ones I replaced. I inspected today and they haven't moved. I recommend spending a few dollars more for these OEM type or you may be rolling like a boat going down the road....

Love these

Do yourself a favor and get the Moog sway bar links for your CK series Chevy truck. They don't cost a lot more than the cheap ones but work so much better. The barrel nut saves a lot of time and hassle trying to get the nut started inside the control arm. I've done these numerous times on different trucks and these are the only ones I will buy from now on.

Great product

After a lot of reading I chose to order two of these for my 2002 tahoe. Moog's reputation for making quality parts and amazons price helped lead to the decision. Installation of these were a breeze... Getting my old ones out were a little more trouble and required a sawzall. Noticeable difference in steering after install, i had a ton of play in it prior. There are instructions in the package but honestly your best bet is to head to youtube if you need help with install. 1Aauto has a Youtube channel that is great with how to videos.

A couple tips...

What can I say, it's a sway bar link. I personally install these upside-down, that is, inserting the bolt up through the bottom of the frame. Based on where the factory drills the access hole sometimes this is the only practical way to do it. Another possible option would be to use a crow's foot. Because these go on relatively loosely (due to the compressibility of the plastic shock absorption part), locktite might also be a good idea. GM's procedure for replacing these involves jacking under the opposite wheel (while the whole vehicle is on stands or lift) to move the sway bar upwards.

Good value

I installed this on my 03 Chevy Avalanche because the old one needed to be cut while I was installing a new axle. This didn't look like it was the same part, but its actually easier to install than OEM and it did end up fitting perfect.

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