Features:

  • Flex-Clay Technology
  • Removes contamination, overspray and pollution
  • Works on paintwork, glass, plastic and metal surfaces
  • Easy to use
  • Smooth as glass feel
Worked perfectly, quickly.

Ok, so this is my first time claying a car, I drive a black Toyota FJ cruiser. Clay has just never been a part of my car wash routine. I had some stuff on my hood, gritty junk that felt like it was embedded in the paint or had been waxed in or whatever- the hood just no longer felt totally smooth when you ran your hand over it. SO, I watched their little video and with honestly low expectations I bought the medium duty clay kit. Washed the hood, used the clay kit- bam gritty feeling gone. Not in an hour, in like 5 minutes. The hood is smooth as ice and looks literally brand new. I'm almost baffled how perfectly it worked. It's incredibly easy and fast. I don't write many reviews, but I felt like I had to about this product.

Changed the way I clean/detail cars

I grew up washing and waxing cars, which is perfect for an OCD girl. I always tried to scrub off bugs and tar with a cleaner wax and lots and lots of elbow grease and time. It has worked for me. I recently got a white car (in Dec) and this winter has been rough in the Midwest.... so last car wash I noticed rust spots in the paint, in a lot of sporadic places. I freaked out - and wax wasn’t touching them. Then I read up on clay bar, and gave a chemical guys a try. Read that the medium was the way to go, and I DO NOT REGRET IT!!! I clay barred and waxed my whole car (SUV) in 2 hours and took little effort to work out the rust spots. Never in my life have I let paint so smooth before waxing. I am sold on this stuff!!!! Before and after photos of just one area of the rust on my hood.

Works well, use half of clay

Product works well. I should say the biggest risk is that you drop the clay into the dirt at which point the directions say throw it away. This is because you may now have sand in the clay that will scratch the car. Next, break the bar in half and just use 1/2 at a time. The clay lube is soapy so slippery and it is very easy to drop the clay bar. So, I would recommend that you form part of the bar into a ring around one of your fingers to hold onto it or make a handle to grip out of it. Or put a drop cloth or cardboard under you as you clean to prevent the clay from hitting the dirt. Chances are about 75% that YOU WILL DROP THE BAR. So, be prepared. Also, if the car is too hot in the sun the bar may melt a bit and stick to the car which will take some rubbing with the bar to get the excess off. You can do it in the sun but you will use about twice the lube. You can probably do a 4 door sedan about 4 times if you are somewhat careful with the lube (which will probably run out before the clay. If you see the clay getting pretty dirty you might cut off the dirty clay and throw it out rather than merge it back into the clay. Overall a great product for a good price. I used it on a brand new Tesla 3 before putting great paint sealer on to protect the paint.

Great starter kit

Chemical Guys offers a variety of high quality, affordable products. I'm particularly fond of their waxes and microfiber towels. I purchased this kit to get a feel for their clay bars and came away very impressed. The included clay bar is of good size and actually ended up outlasting the lube. It is, as advertised, a light duty clay bar; if your car is heavily contaminated I would suggest moving up to the gray bar. If you are new to clay barring, here are a few quick tips: 1. Wash > Dry > Clay > Wash > Dry > Wax You can of course compound or polish in between the clay and wax, but these are the absolutely necessary steps. 2. Before busting out the clay, put your hand in a brand new Ziploc bag (or whatever brand storage bag you have sitting around) and run it slowly across the surface of your car. This will amplify your sense of touch and give you an idea of where to focus your time. Generally the front of the vehicle has the most contaminants. 3. Spray a chunk of the bar with a little bit of lube to make it more workable and form it into a patty about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. Spray each spot with lube before you clay it and spray again if the clay starts to catch. Reform the patty frequently to avoid scratching your paint with the dirt it has accumulated. 4. If you drop the patty on the ground, throw it away. NO EXCEPTIONS.

Better then other clay bars I’ve used in the past 20 years.

As with all the other Chemical guys products, it does what they say it will do. What I can share with this kit specifically is, the clay itself compared to meguires and others I have used in the past, well it simply better due to the stickiness of the product itself. I guess the best way to discribe it would be a mix of clay and bubble gum, making it much more effective and quick to pick up particles and shortening clay time to 1/2 in my case. So would I recommend? YES.

1st time claybar user, astounding results

I have a "retro-bird" (Thunderbird) that, like any vehicle over the years, has collected a series of clear-coat scratches, discoloration, and lack of luster. I've had it detailed by a personal friend multiple times over the past 12 years, but the paint really needed a major "refresh". I began researching several "how to" videos on YouTube for auto finish restoration. I learned how to correct clear-coat scratches (with sandpaper, no less), use rubbing compound to remove discoloration, and to blend the clear-coat finish. Mind you, my lifetime experience ends with wash, wax, and protect. After correcting all of the blemishes, I ordered this Chemical Guys Medium Clay Bar after watching the company's "how-to" video. The detailer made it look easy as he demonstrated tips, techniques, uses, and explanations. I learned that the medium clay is their "go to" for most jobs where the finish is in relatively good shape but never had a clay bar before. I did purchase their lubricant, but.... opted not to use is as I was fortunate enough to be able to clay-bar the Tbird during a day of light rain. (note: rainwater is naturally clean, naturally "soft" leaving no hardwater spots, and offers a continuous lubrication and rinse action). You can really see and feel a difference in the clear-coat. It stripped out all of the rough contaminants, wax, oxidation from the finish. Lastly, I used Turtle Wax hard wax and laid down a heavy coat before buffing out. The end result was car-show competition finish! It took me about 4 days from start to finish, but the clay bar process was actually the easiest, fastest part of the process yielding the highest possible return on results. If you are like me and have never clay-barred a vehicle before, you owe it to yourself to strip the wax off, clay-bar, then use a good hard wax. you won't be disappointed. One last thing - I'd like to pass one of the most important tips the Chemical Guys passed along in the video. DO NOT USE THE WHOLE BAR OF CLAY AT ONCE. What I mean is, cut about 1/4 of the bar off and use that. If you DROP the clay-bar onto the ground, you cannot use it - throw it away immediately. It will instantly pick up and embed any grit from the floor, and will ruin your finish. Just cut another 1/4 of the bar and continue on. Trust me, I dropped two pieces during the process. If it had been the whole bar at once, I would have been sunk.

Works well

Removed quite a bit of particals from my cars paint. I broke off only a quarter of the clay bar to do my whole car. Plenty of clay left. Fluid works well. When the bottle gets low, just add more water. Went through 3/4 of the bottle on my car then refilled. Wear gloves or else you’ll end up with smerf hands.

Great detailing product.

This is a great tool to have in your Arsenal of detailing products. The clay bar worked great and was easy to use. The spray lubricant is a must have. It makes clay barring the car very easy. The spray smells great and helps makes the job go by a little easier. I have a new Ford Expedition and did the whole vehicle no problem. I had a lot of debris in paint probably from shipping and sitting on the lot. I used have the lubricant bottle on the expedition so you figure you would get 3 applications on a regular sedan. Just remember the clay removes all the debris in your paint but also all the wax/sealer as well. I did a coat of polish after and followed up with a coat of wax and the car went from feeling like sandpaper to glass.

Ever Car owner should have this!

So my S550 had what looked and felt like sand partials embedded into the paint on the whole rear end. Almost like it was painted and before it dried it was driven backward through the desert. I was so upset I wanted to return the car or have a new paint job. Car wash after car was and nothing got it clean. So I googled my problem and this product with a video popped up. I watched the whole YouTube video than jumped on Amazon and ordered it. Who would’ve ever thought a ball of clay and some lube would fix it! The butt of my S550 is smooth as a babies butt. Thank God for Chemical Guys

AMAZING, should have done this years ago.

Why did I wait so long to try this? Its SOOOO much better than a buff/polish at removing the junk off paint and getting it smooth again. Even before waxing, it beads much better than the paint that felt like sand paper. I can't put my windshield cleaner bottle on the hood anymore because it slides right off. Oh, and it smells good too. If you use one piece of clay too long, it gets saturated and stringy (more like gum than clay). It will dry out, so you can put it back in the container, or stick it onto a clean spot while you do something else and it'll be back to normal. My truck is rather filthy, and this stuff is cheap... so I'm playing on the safe side and using it for the really nasty areas then trashing that small piece. Its 2 bars in the kit, but you only use a small portion of one bar at a time. I know... Silver always looks good... errr... never looks bad? Truck had these tiny black particles stuck all over. You had to SCRUB them off, at the risk of harming the paint. OR... just a quick couple swipes with the clay bar. WAY better to remove spots/bugs/etc from small places without any chance of harming paint. I'll be using it as regular upkeep and spot waxing/ceramic coating the areas as I go so I never end up with a pitted/stained front end again. Oh... ignore the grill, its plastic, pitted, and beyond hope. That's the next project.

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