Features:

  • Fully automatic 8 step patented program tests battery condition and revives, charges and maintains to ensure maximum battery life and performance
  • Three simple to perform test programs to establish condition and performance of battery and vehicle charging system
  • Input voltage AC 100-120VAC, 50-60Hz
  • Minimum battery voltage required: 2V
  • Safe for vehicle electrical systems through exceptionally clean voltage and current delivery with no surges, spikes or sparks
  • Unique patented system to recover, charge and maintain all lead-acid battery types to maximize performance and extend battery life
HERE'S WHAT IT MEANS IF THE POWER LIGHT IS BLINKING

Great charger (I have two), but incomplete manual. I hooked the charger up to a very dead battery, and after a minute, the power light started blinking- no other lights were on. This is NOT documented in the manual, so I emailed Ctek, and after a few days, received this reply: "Dear Sir, Thank you for your mail. Flashing power lamp indicates that NO CONNECTION is established between charger and battery and the unit has entered power save mode. The reason can be that there is a 1. Physical BAD connection; 2. Or if no battery is connected at all 3. Or if the battery voltage is too low (under 2.2V) the led will start to flash. Test: Connection failure? check clamps/eyelets and quick connector and as the cables are well attached inside the clamps. Test the charger on another, fresh battery." In my case, my battery was totally dead. I ended up connecting it to another car with jumper cables for a few minutes to give it a slight charge, then connecting the ctex, then removing the jumper cable, and them making sure at least one of the ctek charge lights was illuminated. Worked fine then.

Seven-Step Procedure to Charge and Recondition a 12-Volt Battery

My 2015 Porsche Cayenne S e-Hybrid is now three-years old. The 12-volt batteries in all of my previous vehicles died at precisely four years. This time I want the 12-volt batter in the Cayenne (which, by the way, is under the driver seat) to last much longer. The charging terminals for the 12-volt battery (not the hybrid battery) are in the back right under the hood (so, no, you don't have to take off the driver seat to get to the terminals of the battery). I connected the red alligator clip of the CTEK to the positive terminal, and the black alligator clip to the negative terminal. I then plugged the other cord of the CTEK to an extension cord from my house. I set the Mode to Recondition. And, after approx. 5 hours, the green light of Step 7 came on, which means that the battery is now fully charged and reconditioned; I disconnected the cables and stored the unit and the cables in the supplied pouch. The manual says to repeat this process once a year, so I'll be doing this again next year--hopefully this will prevent having to replace the battery after four years! i will repost here whatever happens. Note: there is an 8th step for maintenance charging, but I don't need that, as I drive my Porsche practically every day.

Good for AGM motorcycle batteries

Compact well engineered Used my Fluke multimeter to see how it handled a damaged AGM and a healthy AGM and think it’s putting out the right volts to properly top off and float a motorcycle battery That was why I bought it Expensive but does more than the typical tender can

"Crap, I need a new battery." ... "Nevermind!"

Me on Monday: "ARRGH! I left the stupid charger plugged in and now my battery is d-e-d, dead!" Order CTEK MUS 4.3 because I need a tender anyways and may as well give it a shot. Order CTEK cigarette lighter adapter kit because I don't like leaving the hood open. Amazon delivers on Tuesday morning. I plug it in to the cigarette lighter port overnight, set it to try and charge it, expecting not much. Me on Wednesday: *back to zooming around town without having replaced the battery*

Easy to use battery charger

This charger brought a very weak battery back to life, that's in daily use now, without issues. Very well manufactured. Chargers' cable and battery clamps are of correct size, and adequate length. With its' available modes, charging is easy and complete. Have used this CTEK charger a lot, almost daily, since March, 3, 2018, to keep batteries charged without issues. Shipping was on time, and ordering super easy.

Absolutely Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't usually write a review, but this thing takes the cake. I had a completley dead and abused XS POWER D2400 agm reading 1.2v!!!! Had to connect a second battery to get the charger to turn on (wont turn on unless it sees at least 2v) after a couple of attempts and failed charging cycles, i never gave up and kept cycling through the 8 steps. After about 5 days of starting and stopping charging this thing completely restored my dead XS POWER agm! Just wanted to give this thing a good review for those with dead batteries and dont have the extra $350 for a new batt.

Great Charger for Car Storage & RECOND Batteries

The MUS 4.3 Test & Charge is my second CTEK Product (the first being the Lithium US for my motorcycle). Please be advised that I may be slightly biased (not affiliated/sponsored by anyone). I purchased this unit specifically for keeping charge on stored vehicles and reconditioning batteries in daily driving cars. Per the user manual, CTEK recommends RECOND once a year or whenever battery is depleted completely. If you’re just buying this unit for the first time, it might be a good idea to RECOND too. It took about 9.5 hours (15:30-01:00 next day) to complete all 7 cycles, including RECOND, on my BMW F13 650i. Even though this car mostly sit in my garage for the past half a year or so, it still kept a lot of juice. Its BMW OEM battery is either 90 or 105 Ah, that would take a longgggggg time to charge if it were completely dead. Yes, CTEK is much more expensive than competitors’ products, but it has automatic sequence to test, charge, and maintain your batteries. Other products out there will certainly get the job done as well, though I’m not sure if they’ll do it as well as this unit. There is a nice feature splitting the charge sequence into a faster bulk cycle (<80%) and absorption (80-100%). Not to mention that it will perform tests on the battery and alternator so you won’t waste electricity to charge if it will just die again soon. Generally speaking, $100 for this product is amongst the best investment for your precious weekend cars. If you can afford to have fun, you should definitely keep a battery trickle charger on hand, especially if you live in a colder climate. You wouldn’t want a dead battery to ruin a nice day out, and you definitely don’t want inferior chargers to damage your batteries.

The test aspect is very useful and really help figure out where the electrical problem ...

My BMW battery was getting low and I thought using this I could revive it and get maybe another year out of it. My initial test showed it to be in the red or below 12.6V output. After an overnight charge it was back up to green but one week later I tested it again and it was low again. I ran the recondition mode instead and it improved the power retention. It held its charge after one week and stayed at yellow or at 12.6V. The test aspect is very useful and really help figure out where the electrical problem lies.

Keeps all my bikes and cars ready to drive

With a garage full of three motorcycles and three cars, keeping batteries charged is an important chore in my garage. With old-fashioned battery chargers or "trickle chargers" I never knew whether the battery was charged, needed more, or at what rate I should be charging things. This charged takes out all the guess work: plug it in, watch all the lights light up, done. Pro tip: I bought pigtails to attach to the batteries of all three bikes and my antique car--that way I can just plug in the charger without having to remove bodywork to get to the terminals.

Modern cars need a trickle charger

The Mercedes Benz AMD has a takeoff connection to the battery, but it requires you use the alligator clips, and the hood must be kept open. I was able to use a couple bolts to hard-connect the wires to the battery. You have to remove the cover around the jump-start connector and then lift the inner cover. The low voltage cable is short, so you will need the extension cable. It is still not long enough to reach from the front of the car back to my garage. So, the power unit has to stay outside and the main power cable sneaking under the garage door. Don't know if I could add another extension cable without affecting performance. Then, I could leave the poser unit inside.

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