• Keep your family safe with this hardwired smoke and carbon monoxide alarm; the battery backup means constant monitoring, even if there's a power failure
  • Features an electrochemical Carbon Monoxide sensing technology as well as an ionization sensor that detects the fine particles of a fast-burning fire
  • Indicator lights on the face of the unit display the presence of smoke or carbon monoxide, while an 85-decibel siren provides a clear, loud warning upon detection
  • Can connect to other compatible BRK or First Alert detectors, to ensure all alarms will sound when threat is detected
  • Simple to use, with a single test/silence button, and side-load battery compartment; tamper-resistant locking brackets and universal mounting brackets make installation easy
  • Rigorously tested to meet UL standards

Purchased these to replace older hardwired smoke alarms. Also wanted to add carbon monoxide testing too as we have a gas furnace. Did not need to change the power connectors as they were the same as the existing units (which were First Alert). These take 2 @ AA batteries so they continue to work if AC power is lost. Like that they are AA as the older ones used 9v and they NEVER seemed to have a solid connection - would start to chirp even though batteries were good. Make sure to use lithium batteries so you don't have to worry about changing them every year (unless that doesn't bother you). Make sure you look at how old your existing smoke alarms are as the sensors are usually rated at 7 - 10 years. So you need to replace them to maintain protection.

Over the last year, I've been replacing my old First Alert devices one-by-one. I am very pleased with the SC7010BV's. First and foremost, I really do appreciate the lower tone of the alerts. Like most, as I get older, the higher frequencies are harder to hear. This device gets my attention MUCH more effectively than traditional high-frequency alarms. I have six detectors in my house, and I love how the verbal alerts let me figure out immediately which one is the source of the alert. They integrate perfectly with the interconnects of my older First Alert detectors too (although obviously you don't get the room name announced for the older ones) so I've had no problems replacing my devices one by one. It uses the same connector as the old ones, so no rewiring was necessary. I did have to replace the mounting ring on the old ones with the one that comes with the new ones. I also have the interconnect line between them connected to a BRK RM4 Smart Relay BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert which is then connected to my Vera home automation controller. This way I can get e-mail/text message if any of the detectors goes off while I'm away from home. (You can't tell which one went off, just that one of them did). I'm not looking forward to that ever happening, though. I also have my home controller automatically turn on lights around the house if the alarm goes off at night. I have had none of the false alarm problems reported by others. And for those reviewers that say it's too loud next to their head when you're programming it on the ceiling ... I programmed them "on the ground" right after I pulled the plastic tab on the batteries to activate them.

I have 6 hardwired smoke alarms in my home that are past due to be replaced. I wanted to add the protection of a CO detector as well. I was also wanting a plug and play replacement that would work with my existing detectors because I plan on replacing a few ever month or so until they are all replaced. I bought one of them to start with the upstairs hallway outside of all the bedrooms. It was a direct replacement and used the same plug as the old one pictured above. I could have even used the same mounting plate but did not because it was old and yellow. After removing the old one I only had to back out the screws a few turns to remove the mount. Installed the new mount, plugged in the new detector using the existing plug, and twisted it on to the mount. I tested it and it alerted all the other old detectors in the house. 5 min install time. I included a picture of the new one and also the old one so you can see the type of plug it uses. The last picture is the new plug sitting on then old detector to show what type of plug it uses which in my case was the exactly the same.

Almost a year ago now, I ripped out all of the smoke and CO detectors in my house. I replaced them all with hard-wired detectors during a home remodel in accordance with NFPA guidelines (e.g. one in every sleeping quarter, gathering area, outside the door of every sleeping area, bottom/top of every stair, etc). The hard part was crawling around in unfinished areas of the house to run wire everywhere: once I had 12/3 NM-B in every ceiling box, wiring up these detectors was quick and easy. Each detector has a base that screws onto the junction box. It is a plastic flange that covers a quarter inch or so around the box, helping to mask the edges of the paint job or any irregularities in the drywall cutting. The wire hardness snaps into the detector, which then twists onto the flange. It comes with a label where you can write the data of install for future reference. It looks great compared to your Home Depot special, where you are lucky to get more than two that are compatible with each other. So far I have had zero false alarms after 8+ months of being installed. They have done better than the old ones that nuisance tripped by frying bacon - and the new ones are installed close to the old ones. Hitting the test button, they all go off within a second or two and are LOUD. They could wake the dead, which is important because I may as well be dead when I am sleeping. A train could smash its way through the house and I would not wake up. These things are loud enough to make my ears hurt more than a rock concert. I have burned a few candles near them and they have not triggered, but have not tried with actual fires, e.g. burning a 2x4 close by. It seems like smoke detectors have gone downhill lately, but these seem to work well enough based on my own observation and on other reviews.

We bought this to replace the separate smoke alarm and carbon monoxide detectors we already had. I was concerned about whether the wiring would match up, but installation was super simple - unplug the old alarm, plug in the new alarm, and and you are well protected once again with the bonus that we only have one unit rather than two separate ones to perform the same functions. As a bonus, the backup batteries are AA, which we always have on hand, whereas our old units used 9 volt batteries. Very happy!

These tend to work very well and are not too hard to install, although if this is a new wiring installation, you will need a wire that runs to all the detectors, so they can communicate. If this is a replacement it is a breeze. The new detector comes with the detector, mounting trim, new wire set, dust bonnet, and battery (the batteries shipped in my order were Duracells on the SC9120BFF and Eveready on the smoke only models). To replace:, simply: 1. Unscrew the old detector 2. Unplug the connector. 3, Unscrew the old trim piece (loosen screws just enough to remove plate). NOTE: You can leave the old trim plate but it may have yellowed over the years. Install new detector: 1.Install the new trim plate. 2.Mark installation date on back on new detector, 3. Connect wire plug (back of detector is labeled to show you which side goes where (black ,orange, white wires). 4. Screw on new detector. 5. Remove battery seal. 6. TEST after installing all your detectors to make sure they communicate. These should be changed once every 10 years, as First Alert now makes these to last as long as their smoke units.

I needed to replace an aging smoke alarm in our house that was constantly beeping due to it being 5 years old. Using the model number from the underside of the smoke alarm made this easy to find on Amazon with no effort. What I like about the package is that it comes with the whole unit which includes the smoke alarm, the mount, and electrical wiring needed to connect it to your house (see picture). I was also pleasantly surprised to find that it comes with a dust cover in case you are painting! Seriously, I had no idea what it was for until I read the print on the cover itself. Talk about going above and beyond what is necessary. All in all, it tested fine and once connected worked as expected.

This was purchased as a replacement for an identical alarm that was fitted in our house 5 years ago. Whilst expensive compared to other models, I wanted the ease of just being able to plug into the existing wiring and mount. Installation was a breeze - installed the batteries, connected it to the existing wiring loom and screwed onto the existing mount. Took no more than 2 mins.

Had to replace the ones in my home because they died from old age. They last about 5 - 6 years. Put that on your computer calendar, so you can schedule a reorder before the things start chirping in the middle of the night. Don't buy them ahead of time because they will still age in the unopened box. This time I read the instructions and also learned that you should remove them from the ceiling and power when changing the batteries! I never knew that. It's a pain, but not a big deal.

This is the ONLY smoke detector that won't give false alarms in the kitchen! If your smoke alarms go off when you cook, you *need* a photoelectric alarm. I tried 2 different ones from the store besides the one that came with my house, all used ionizing radiation to detect fires (the most common technology). One was even a $50 model that said it had some intelligent way of reducing false alarms....in all cases, the smoke detectors would infallibly go off if I tried cooking a large package of bacon. They went off for other things too, but bacon was the sure-fire way to set them off. So, obviously, I put this to the test with bacon. To the dismay of my family's arteries, I cooked three entire packages in a row and even had the fan above the stove off. This thing didn't go off at all. I've had it in place for about 2 months now since and it has only gone off once - when I made it go off by intentionally burning a small piece of wood near it to ensure it wasn't defective. EDIT: Make that 4 months now! And it just passed the entire-day-of-Thanksgiving-cooking test! Normally we'd automatically take down the old fire alarm on Thanksgiving day but this sucker didn't go off even once! ...Thank you!