Features:

  • Designed to drain most standard and ABS brake systems
  • Bleeds and flushes hydraulic brakes and clutches with vacuum
  • Features integrated silencer for quieter work
  • Helps prevent spills and messes
  • Set includes 1 piece of 40-inch silicon hose with universal rubber adapter
Works great even with small home compressor

I just completed a total brake overhaul on my civic including master cylinder, soft lines and calipers front and rear so my hydraulic system was completely empty. Using Capri Tools bleeder I was able to pull fluid to the entire system and get it free of air even with my tiny 15 gallon compressor. I had to keep stopping after pulling for about 15 seconds but this gave me time to top off the master cylinder. Brake pedal is now rock hard and this was ton easier than positive pressure system. All in all, 5 stars for ease of use and well-built components.

Better than mityvac (professional techncian)

Okay so I will say this is the best vacuum bleeder I have used. I'm both a master ase technician and a Honda platinum certified technician. I use this tool at least once a day. It has such a strong vacuum it will actually pull the piston back into the caliper (this is perfectly normal ). I have spend thousands of dollars on tools and typically don't venture too far off from the main suppliers (snap on and Matco). I used to have a mityvac bleeder but it broke so I was in need of another bleeder. This is why this bleeder is better than the mityvac bleeder. It holds more than mityvac, it has a drain on the top (mityvac you have to unscrew the bottom, sounds like no big deal but here's the problem, there is a large o-ring that keeps it sealed, after a few months of heavy use that o ring will swell from the oil and it is very difficult to find a replacement) this one is a small o-ring and I was able to find a replacement very easily for next to nothing for cost. This one is also roughly 50$ cheaper. If your debating on this and the mityvac hands down buy this one a d save yourself some money.

Pretty slick tool

Pretty slick tool. I owned a Mighty Vac hand pump for about 20yrs and the plastic handle finally broke. Began a search for another and discovered this. I liked it was air operated and it had a larger reservoir (a downside to the MV). My only concern was how fast it would suck fluid through the lines as I use this on motorcycles with small master cylinders. I was happy to find it goes slow enough that you can pull a few ounces and not worry about sucking the M/C dry in 1/2 sec.

Works Great...with Helpful Hints

I've used this twice now and I learned the proper way to use it the second time. First use I was getting A LOT of air bubbles mixed in with the brake fluid and couldn't get them to stop. It was kind of a frothy mix of brake fluid and air. I was very frustrated. I did some research and found a lot of other home mechanics having the same problems with vacuum pumps. Fortunately, I was able to find some helpful hints. The main problem was that air was being sucked in through the threads on the bleeder valve. The easiest solution is to put Teflon Tape or PTFE thread sealant on the threads of the bleeder valve. This will prevent the air from being sucked in through the threads. Once I did that I was able to expel all the air and got all of my brake lines bled completely in no time flat! I even used this to suck out the old fluid from my master cylinder. Highly recommended time-saver tool!!

One-Man bleed. It actually worked!

I was genuinely surprised at how well this vacuum bleeder worked. I installed a new master cylinder in my Tempest so I knew I was going to have to bleed the whole system again. I've always done the old-fashioned two-person brake bleed and it's always been slow, annoying, and you actually have to have a friend (something I'm terrible at doing). I looked at quite a few one-man bleeder systems, most of which seem pretty cheap, flimsy, and had hit-and-miss review scores. I didn't want to buy something that didn't work well enough only to have to do it the old-school way anyway. All the positive reviews on this unit just told me to buy it, try it, and be unnaturally optimistic. The unit arrived fully assembled and ready to rock-and-roll. The pneumatic quick-release fitting was already attached and it secured to the quick-release Milton fittings on my air hose just fine with no audible leaks. It's incredibly straightforward to use. Hook rubber hose and nipple up to the brake bleeder valve, crack it open, press the button on the vacuum and watch the fluid and air bubbles get pulled out of the system. It all drains into a very generously large reservoir; it will hold way more fluid than you'll reasonably pull from any brake system. All the parts seem to be good quality and I can see that it will likely last quite some time. The rubber/silicone hose may need to be replaced at some point but clear plastic hose is readily available at pretty much every hardware store. The hose that is on the unit isn't completely clear like I was expecting or accustomed to using during a bleed job. It's a translucent white color. You can still see through it fine but I'm used to completely clear vinyl-like hose. No big deal, it gets the job done just fine. The only thing that made using this vacuum system a bit awkward was judging when the air is actually purged. The fluid comes out of the bleeder valve much faster than when using the old-school method that it's sometimes hard to tell whether there are air bubbles or whether it's just fluid rushing by so quickly that it LOOKS like air. Regardless, I decided each wheel was done when I stopped seeing BIG bubbles for a solid 10 seconds or so. I suppose you could turn the air pressure down on your compressor and it would probably pull more slowly. I left my compressor at 90-100 PSI and nothing blew up. I did all 4 corners of my car in less than a half hour. It took longer to get each corner of the car off the ground, the wheel off, and the frame on a jackstand than it did to get the air out of the line. Brake stuff now doesn't seem like a big chore to me and I'm glad I can do it myself whenever I need to!

Excellent bleeder

This got many good reviews so I decided to buy one.I just completed a 4 corner rotor and pad replacement on my Porsche Boxster and it was time for a fluid flush.This is truly a one man job with this bleeder.It seems be very well made,I guess time will tell.One thing to watch is when using it only open the bleeders slightly as it draws quickly and if you draw the reservoir down too far you will have to bleed longer to remove air you let in the system.The rubber hose is plenty long and pliable, great connector on caliper end, pneumatic 1/4" on the other.The fluid collects in the bleeders tank and is easily dumped with a removable cap after.Didn't spill a drop on my garage floor either.I recommend this bleeder. Update 12/2017:--The Mity Vac auto filler works great with this bleeder.It clamps onto your master cylinder and feeds the fluid as you bleed or flush it down.No more back and forth from the wheel to the master cylinder to check the fluid level.

Easy to use

Got this to bleed the brakes after changing the calipers on my Tahoe. Also have used it to change fluid on two other cars by my self. No instructions needed. Connect an air supply, connect the clear hose to the adapter, connect the adapter to the bleeder valve. Then press down the handle and open the bleeder valve. It’s that simple. Just make sure you don’t let the master cylinder run dry.

Well built and does the job. Happy to add it to my equipment kit.

This unit build quality is good. I have used in for one job, brake fluid exchange on my Infinity G37. Works well for purging the reservoir and for each of the 4 brake line runs. Just keep in mind to keep fresh fluid in the reservoir as you are purging each brake line. I found it impossible to not pull in some air at the hose attachment to the bleeders. If you make certain you have the vacuum on before you open the bleeders and close the bleeders before removing vacuum you have no worry about air getting back into the system. If you had lines detached and are needed to purge air from the system then air entering at the hose fitting to the bleeder will obscure when you have purged all the air from the lines. I guess I would just keep the vacuum on long enough and purge enough fluid to know it has to have gotten all the air out. When detaching the hose from a bleeder, lift up the end of the hose with the vacuum still on so all the fluid in the hose sucks into the catch tank otherwise when you set the hose down it may dribble some fluid onto your floor / driveway.

Best brake bleed ever

This kit was great. I did a 4 wheel disc brake conversion on my 1970 Beetle. I was using a hand vacuum pump to bleed the lines and it broke at the pressure gauge at the driver front wheel sending air shooting into my master cylinder. After 5 times bleeding it old school (two people one pumping the brakes the other operating the bleed valve) I still could not get a consistent pedal. I used this by myself 3x on all wheels. I pulled a total of a liter of brake fluid through the lines it is now the most solid brake pedal I have ever felt. I got the pedal back after the first go through but you cant be too careful with brakes. I bet I only needed 1x but the 2x more was just overkill so that suits me.

A little tricky

I admit that I did not read the reviews here before purchasing this item but, mainly was convinced from a couple of demos on you tube. The reason for a three star was it made a simple job into almost a nightmare. That in itself should give it a one star but, I'll explain. I've been dealing with brakes since the late Sixties. Never had a problem bleeding brakes, as long as I had someone to depress the petal. Never blew out a master cylinder because I know not to depress it more then halfway. So seeing this in action told me I might be able to finally do bleeding and flushes using this tool by myself. I recently got a brake fluid tester and checked all my cars. Of course the one I expected to be the worse was the clutch fluid in my 1985 Chevy truck. And it was. Showed in the red. Great opportunity to flush the system using this device. I admit I did hot read the direction, which by the way came with it, and began to perform the flush. I first opened the bleeder to insure it would turn then closed it. I attached the supplied hose to the bleeder, hooked up my air line (125 psi), then pushed down on the trigger and hooked the fixing ring over it and let vacuum build up. I then added fluid to the opened reservoir, went below and opened the bleeder. Went back up top and continued to add fluid as needed. It seemed to be working. I then closed the bleeder and flipped the fixing ring off and thought all was done. When I went to step on my clutch, I had nothing. Somehow, air got in and all I takes is a very small amount in a hydraulic clutch system and you have problems. I had to get a friend over and together we were able to get my clutch back but without the help of this unit. I started to think, this unit can't be used on hydraulic clutches but, discovered it stated it on the side of the box so, hence the reason for this review. I plan on doing the brake system on my cars and will update as to that performance. After reading the instructions, I really don't believe I did anything wrong. The unit is well made and seems to work as it should. Thank you for reading this and will update with any new developments. Update: I used the device on a 2003 Buick Lesabra on doing a brake flush. Even though a lot of air was present in the hose, no air was introduced to the system. The air that I saw, did not come from my brake system. I believe if I put tape on the threads, air would still be introduced so I did not use tape. I also put a vacuum gauge on the fitting and got a reading of 22 inches. 29 inches from a digital snap-on pressure reader. I have up-graded my rating to 4 stars. Will post again as I continue to use the device. Ok, I'm finally updating the Capri vacuums bleeder system to a five. 5/26/19 I went to go for a motorcycle ride and had a problem with the hydraulic clutch. I thought all was OK because over the winter I manually bled both the brakes and clutch and all seemed fine. Anyway, I hook up the unit to the slave, applied some suction, noticed some air, turn it off and all was good with the clutch again. So now I feel as long as you do the steps in order and properly, clutch or brakes should work out fine.

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