Features:

  • Innovative fix - this exhaust manifold to cylinder head repair clamp fixes a leaking exhaust due to broken manifold bolts
  • Simplifies repair - this external clamping solution creates seal by attaching directly to cylinder head, without needing to extract original studs
  • Complete kit - comes with clamp and bolts for solid repair
  • Quality engineering - designed in the United States and backed by decades of automotive aftermarket experience
  • Ensure fit – to make sure this part fits your exact vehicle, input your make, model and trim level into the Amazon Garage
Works on 6.2L!

Worked perfectly on my 6.2L 08 Escalade. Don't know why they don't advertise 6 2L. Competitor's do. I rolled the dice and it worked great. Make sure you plug in the water temp sensor while the bolts are loose, BEFORE you loctite and torque. I trimmed the lock tab on the plug to make it lock in easier. Also, use a hammer and bend down the metal heat shield on the manifold. No need to trim.

Good old Chevy tick its gone! Silverado 2500 HD

Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing. FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off. Dorman 917-107 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front. Dorman 917-142 (This product) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front. The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part. Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the passengers side rear (917-142). If this is the part you are getting you are in luck because its much easier than the 917-107. First step is the heat shield on the manifold is in the way of the bracket from mounting, but its so annoyingly close to fitting. You will have to of around 1/4"-3/8" of the heat shield. I used my compressor cutoff tool that mat quick work of it. A dremel would work well too. I suppose you could try shears, but its in a pretty awkward location. Once the cutting is done it is simply a matter of bolting down the bracket (Used anti seize) and torque to the spec in the instructions. then install the 3rd bolt that holds presses against the manifold (Use high temp loctite) and torque to spec (I think it was 18 lbs-ft). After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing. The whole process took about an hour. Most of it was just figuring out the best way to cut the exhaust heat shield. Once that is cut the bracket goes in in around 10 minutes. Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head. Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.

easy to install, I fixed my exhaust leak in minutes.

A slightly pricy bandaid for something that seems so simple, but so far seems worth it. currently down with the Flu, I was still able to install it in a matter of minutes with minimal effort. most difficult part was rolling back the heat shield with a pair of needle nose, and that wasn't difficult at all. I used this in place of the front driver side bolt, it is the only one that has broken off so far and it seems to have broken off flush with the cylinder head. this clamp mounted up nicely. my 2006 Chevy Avalanche 1500 5.3 is now running much quieter and there is no longer a violent vibration at idle. I have only driven it once since installing, so I will update if anything changes.

Great product on my 2009 Tahoe exhaust

The Dorman 917-142 took care of the exhaust leak from the rear right exhaust manifold. 2009 Tahoe. Sure wish Chevy had used more substantial bolts for mounting the exhaust manifolds to the heads. This Dorman exhaust clamp works in the front left or rear right locations. I had to remove the right front tire and inner fender to access the area. There is a heat shield that makes it difficult but start to finish took 3 & 1/2 hours. Its the best way to repair those exhaust manifold areas where the mount bolt heads have popped off. Saves a lot of money. I also used part number, Dorman exhaust clamp on the rear left a couple of years ago and it's still working great.

Life/wallet saver!!

Great and innovative product! The last thing I wanted to do was take off my exhaust manifolds and try and fudge with getting the broken bolt out (I also didn't want to pay sumone $1200 or so) to do that at a shop. So I opted for this. I originally seen this type of product from KralAuto but the dorman was a bit cheaper, the only significant difference between the two brands is at the end of the "pinch" bolt. The Kral has a nut welded onto the end of the "pinch " bolt I guess to expand surface pressure, the dorman is just a straight up bolt, no nut. Either way, it took me about half hr to install, at night with flashlights (I'm impatient couldn't wait til the next day!) Some engines may need to trim the heat shield, mine on the other hand was so rusty I just literally ripped off the small piece that was in the way with my hand. The other thing that I will say is to be VERY VERY CAREFULL of your DIPSTICK TUBE! You will need to unbolt the dipstick tube bracket in order to slightly manipulate the dipstick tube in order to get the bracket bolt in. most likely like mine, the tube will have a significant amount of rust/rot where the tube meets the manifolds. Use caution while manipulating the tube!!! With that being said, got it installed and No more tickticktick!! Excellent product. Ill keep everyone posted if anything changes near future

Worked great!!

Second Time I have used these. First on a 2004 2500HD 6.0L and now 06 Suburban 5.3L. The only thing questioned is the 18 ft lb torque spec. on the center bolt that pushes on manifold. I have a pretty good bolt feel in tightening and I felt this was way tight before my torque wrench hit the mark. Lastly make sure you have some high Temp thread lock/sealer before you do the job, none comes with the brackets!

Great solution to a seemingly common

Great solution to a seemingly common, unavoidable problem with manifold bolts breaking off in the heads with GM vehicles! Wasn't looking forward to pulling the heads and extracting the screws, and felt as though this would have to be done because very tight space to perform the extraction with the heads in place. Then I found these life-savers!

Cheap fix that works

Best price and 1 day shipping was the perfect answer for my problem. Top driver side exhaust manifold head bolt completely broke off. I didn't really notice the noise but notice the gas mileage had dropped. After finding the broken bolt I saw this quick fix and looked for the cheapest but fastest shipping. Amazon came through and after installing the part I noticed a huge difference in sound and it completely eliminated the rough idle. Extremely happy with purchase was easy to install and was a cost effective solution to my problem. I will update review in a couple of weeks on wether or not it increased my gas mileage but for as of right now I highly recommend it!

This thing is awesome! If removing the head is not an option ...

This thing is awesome! If removing the head is not an option then you'll have to either live with the leak or get one of these. I'd recommend getting this. Dorman doesn't make a clamp for the second and fifth bolts. If you need one of those check out KRAL. Only other option I know of. This is working great on my '99 4.8L Silverado.

Perfect fix, way easier than extracting the broken bolt

This fixed my exhaust leak and was easy to install on 2007 Yukon XL. Pro tip: to install on rt rear exhaust port; remove tire, inner fender well and dip stick and it is very easy to install through the wheel well. Don't forget to buy the red lock tight or you will be running out to the parts store

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