Features:

  • Professional grade 50mm socket (with offset design) for removing/installing many Acura and Honda engine crank bolts
  • This socket is used to maintain the harmonic damper pulley position while removing/installing the pulley bolt.
  • Use with square socket driver.> 1/2" square drive use with breaker bar
  • Designed with hardened chrome molybdenum steel construction
  • Backed by a lifetime replacement guarantee.
Good tool to retorque the 19 mm harmonic balancer bolt

The tool is a bit shaped awkwardly and a little smaller than the hex indent inside the balancer. It has a tendency to want to fall out. With that being said, I used it only to torque back the 19 mm bolt, and it worked for that. It does NOT need to be used to remove the bolt. To remove the bolt, I only used an impact gun and the Lisle 77080 19 mm harmonic balancer impact socket and it came off. The reason why the professionals out there tell you to use a breaker bar to remove the bolt is because they can jack up the car at 6 ft in the air. I can't. I used a floor jack. In this case, there's no room underneath the car to swing a breaker bar, so I used an impact gun. It worked for me.

Must Read This!

I bought this to help with a water pump and timing belt change. This tool is a must have! It fit snug and did its job! The water pump Installed perfectly on my 03 Odyssey with 197k miles. I chose not to purchase the kit and save a hundred bucks because my pulleys and tensioner seemed to be in excellent shape. Replaced the timing belt as well, even though the old one seemed to be in good repair anyways. I tossed the gasket on the water pump and used the "Right Stuff" gasket maker instead. I also replaced plugs. Suggestions: -Buy THIS crank pulley tool (It will make your life easier and you won't risk damaging your engine). - Take out spark plugs when adjusting cams. - Buy thread lock for crankshaft pulley bolt - Buy thread anti-seize for plugs. - After belt install, turn crankshaft pulley "righty- tighty" two times around and ensure you still have TDC. - Use Walmart cheap Brake Cleaner to clean up area after disassembly. - Watch lots of videos on YouTube to understand lining up cams to TDC. ***CLEAN EGR PORTS in the intake manifold. I completed the water pump and timing belt job. I also replaced spark plugs since I had to remove them to turn the cams to TDC. The old NGK laser plugs were nasty too. I assumed after putting in new plugs, new pump, and new belt, this puppy would purr (The vehicle ran ok before I started this job. The only reason I was changing the water pump is because I noticed coolant on my A/C compressor while doing my last oil change). I fired up the can for the fist time and the idle seemed to be ok, but I could hear the all to common tap coming from the rear valve cover area. This is usually just the solinoid, but it did appear to be a little louder than usual. No check engine lights were on, and while I was driving the car around there were no signs of any problems. I thought the tapping was just the car trying to readjust to the new parts, oil, and plugs I installed. However, after driving about 50 miles, the idle got worse, and shortly after, my engine light and tcs light came on at the same time. The tapping was really loud now, and I was afraid I had damaged something in my cam shaft when adjusting timing. I pulled codes and had P0300, P0302, P305, P306, and P1399. Although the vehicle performance when driving was still good, I had no clue what happened. After reading several posts and watching videos, I decided to check and see if I had a bad coil or spark plug since plugs were loosely packed and out of package upon arrival from Amazon. I simply unplugged the coils to see which ones didn't effect the engine when unplugged. Of course the middle cylinders 2 and 5 were hard to tell because they are in the middle and don't really shake the engine as much as the end cylinders do(I bet many people misdiagnose this and commonly purchase two new coils and plugs which were not really the problem). It was hard for me to tell if the engine was missing or not on 2 and 5 because the idle was so bad in the first place. I even listened with a stethoscope, and heard weird metal clanking noises and tapping in the rear valve cover. I finally went to the next easiest check, and that was to unscrew and check the intake manifold cover. Super simple and took literally 2 minutes to pull off. I was SHOCKED at what I saw. I always use Chevron Gas, or have Techron additive available when I don't have a choice. I know this keeps my fuel system clean, but when I pulled the cover, it was a black carbon mess. My EGR ports were almost completely blocked. My engine was suffocating, and I had no idea. I spent an hour cleaning, scraping, vacuuming, and wiping carbon off the manifold. I put the cleaned cover and gasket back on, and the car sounds like it did when we first purchased it. I still need to do a valve adjustment at some point, but for now, I'm leaving it alone. I hope she is good for another 100k miles. I also switched to synthetic Mobile1 0w20 and Fram Synthetic Filter. I will try to get 6k before next oil change. I have always done the Fram HM and Valvoline HM non synthetic.

Price is great and worked perfectly on my 2001 Honda Accord!

Price is great and worked perfectly on my 2001 Honda Accord. You will need a long drive extension (20" long seemed to be just about right) to get clearance for your breaker bar out of the wheel well. I researched the internet for how to use this tool and a helpful suggestion was to place a jackstand as a support under the extension where the breaker bar connects to it, to keep it from bending down as you apply force to the breaker bar. I used a 4 foot long 1" black iron pipe as a cheater bar on my breaker bar, and it still required effort to break the pulley nut loose. Amazon recommended the "Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda" to go with this, and I ordered it, but was disappointed to discover that this socket will NOT fit inside the socket pass through hole on the Betool pulley tool. Fortunately Amazon returns are painless!

works fine

I don't know how many companies actually produce this tool, or if it's just a bunch of re-brands of the same exact thing from Chine. No matter ,really because this one was fine. It fit nice and tight. Tight enough to be able to leave it there in the hole without it falling out. I guess if I had to say one thing critical about it is that the 1/2" square drive hole was machined a fraction too small to get my 1/2" drive bar into it. I had to hold a 1/2" drive extension up to it and had to smack it with a mallet a couple of times in order to open it up big enough to accept the 1/2" drive.

!!!!!!!!READ FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!!!BE AWARE!!!!!!!!!! This tool is absolutely necessary, but the MOFEEZ 19mm harmonic balancer will not fit in the diameter of this tool. I spent nearly an hour with a grinder to make this small enough to use with the tool. Even the harmonic balancer AutoZone sells would not fit in this crankshaft tool or the one they have for rent. Otherwise after grinding the harmonic balancer down this tool absolutely did the trick with it. A regular socket will not work due to the 180ft/lbs it is specced to unless you’re the Hulk or have some crazy impact tool.

Tool works as intended

This tool is a must if you need to remove a harmonic balancer on a Honda.I held the balancer with this tool, kept it from turning with a 1/2 ratchet, used a 3 foot long breaker bar to get the bolt loose. The bolt is supposed to be torque to 180 lbs but it felt like it was way over 250 lbs.Because of the size of the hex, the tool held up without slipping, cracking or breaking.

Get your 5 foot tube bar ready, the tool breaks or your face .

The infomus Honda cranck bolt issue, attempted with with snap on elec gun and a air impact still didn't want to come out. I don't like using the starter to remove the crank bolt. This tool worked good, very sturdy and didnt break. Would buy again the price is good also.

Could not have done the job without it.

If you have never taken the bolt off your crank shaft be prepared for a lot of swearing and possibly broken tools. Needed to replace the timing belt on my 2003 Honda Pilot and this tool is necessary to remove the crankshaft bolt. I broke 1 pneumatic socket and needed a 3 foot section of pipe to give me the leverage to complete this. breaker bars are a must.

Worked on my Honda Pilot

Man the crankshaft bolts on Honda’s are the worst but this held up with ease with a 6 foot cheater bar and map torch against it. Solid build!! There is some wiggle room it’s not a perfect fit inside the crank but as a previous Acura mechanic even the ones that we used had some wiggle room

Must have if you are planing to remove the crankshaft bolt.

Used for an Acura MDX 2005. Worked as expected. I have never had to apply so much force to remove a bolt... but that is another story. The crankshaft holder worked perfectly.

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