Features:

  • Quality crafter formulas
  • Package Dimensions: 13.2 L x 36.5 H x 27.1 W (centimeters)
  • Package Weight : 1.224 kilograms
  • Country of Origin : United States
Appears well designed, and worked well. I am very pleased.

The item arrived early and in good condition. Because "clay" needs a lubricant during use, I chose TopCoat Formula f11. First I will provide a review of the Mother's Speed Clay 2.0 and then describe my experience with the two combined. (1) The red gripping surface on this item is a sturdy sponge. Beneath that is a dark spongey material. Below that is the surface that functions as the clay. The item appears thoughtfully designed and well manufactured. I had no trouble holding on to the red surface and the bottom surface glided over the car easily. The car's surface is even smoother than it was. If this item will work multiple times, it will be a bargain. (2) As my lubricant, I used a little-known product: TopCoat Formula f11, which I have been trying out. I began with a clean car (2013 E350 in Polar White) that had a couple of coats of TopCoat that had set up well--so the car looked great before I began the claying. Then, I used the Mother's Speed Clay 2.0 to "clay" the car, and at the same time, add another layer of TopCoat f11 [their site said the Formula f11 could be used as a lubricant for clay]. For those not familiar with Formula f11, it produces a surface so smooth it is difficult for dirt and bugs to stick (e.g., brake dust will not stick to your rims). A little water (without carwash soap) and a soft sponge will remove most bugs and dust. The Speed Clay 2.0 and Formula f11 worked together well. The surface of the paint, which had been a very smooth, became very, VERY, VERY smooth. The paint does not look "wet" (which I did not want on a midrange luxury car) but does look like amazingly smooth and appropriately shiny. (Please note that I am not related to either Mothers or TopCoat. I did not receive money or product for this review (what lawyers refer to as "consideration"). I am not a professional detailer. I am just a customer who paid market price for the items and wanted to share my experience. I hope it helps you make a good decision.)

Awesome clay bar

Great, easy to use product. I've used clay bars for over 20 years and this is the best thing since clay bars. Safely removed contamination from the paint surface with ease. Make sure you use a detail lubricant when using. I've been a professional detailer for over 25 years and this is a great addition to my tools.

Great product for everyday cars and maybe show cars. Or should I say vehicles or anything with a painted finish.

This product worked well for me. I could feel the difference before and after using it for the first time. Difference being smoothness to my touch. I made sure to use Meguiers wash as a lubricant and cleaned the speed clay often. I have used a regular clay bar in the past several times and this was just as good and sooooooo much easier. I can’t comment if it is as good as a detailing clay bar that you might use for a show car but for my cars this product worked.

Buy this one, you won't be sorry

I have used the Speed Clay 2.0 on 2 vehicles now. This product is great. It is so much easier to use than regular clay bars are. No more constant kneeding, folding, etc. At least for me, the speed clay did as well or better than clay bars and was much much easier to use with none of the hand pain from all the folding/kneeding. Much easier to keep clean and definitely a plus being able to clean it after dropping. I will buy again.

WORTH EVERY PENNY PERIOD

This product is AMAZING!!!!! Easy to use and works just like it says!!!! I’m a car guy who DEFINITELY would recommend this to ANYONE out there!!!! The BEST product out there to decontaminate the paint on your car before you polish or wax!!!! Worth every penny!!!!!

This makes a tedious job much more tolerable

This makes a tedious job much more tolerable, and it does a superior job at the same time. I have a car that leaves some soot on the back, and washing with a mitt doesn't even begin to clean it up. As a test I cleaned half of the bumper with this product & quick detailer (after washing the entire car, of course), and the other half with regular clay & the same detailer. The Speed Clay cleaned the soot of faster AND more completely. Once I finished the side with regular clay, it still wasn't completely clean. Going back over it several swipes with the Speed Clay made a significant improvement. The Speed Clay broke the soot down into dust, which ran off the car with the excess quick detailer. I would occasionally wipe it on a microfiber and then resaturate the Speed Clay, but that was all the maintenance it required. While it isn't moldable like clay, it does have several different shapes around the edges that make it possible to work into some tight curves & pockets. Working at the edge of the pad still cleaned well and left no imperfections on the car.

Amazing

I have clayed vehicles in the past and found it less than fun. Very tedious and time consuming, and kills your hands. And if you drop the clay, just throw it away. With this, it is a joy to use. I could not tell a difference in how the hood looked, 1/2 with clay, 1/2 with this. Both cleaned up all the buildup off the hood, but the clay took way longer. I actually got the rest of entire car done with the Speed Clay 2.0 in the time it took for clay with 1/2 the hood. So far I have done 2 full size trucks, a mid size sedan, a full size CUV, and 2 motorcycles with this one bar, and it still works great. Even if I drop it, just rinse it off and go again. First time I used it, I used some mothers detail spray, and works great. After that, I tried just using clean carwash soap with a 1:1 with water after washing (but not drying) the vehicle. Worked just as well as the detail spray, but was easier to use and a lot cheaper. I am going to buy another soon because I know this can't last forever, but will keep using these from now on.

An easy alternative to a conventional "clay" bar & wax at same time

Here's the routine I followed to clay and wax the hood, top of trunk, and roof panels this morning: 1. Started with a clean vehicle - I waterless car washed it yesterday with Chemical Guys Swift Wipe. 2. Even though it had only sat out overnight and had no visible dust, I used a fresh, clean microfiber and a light spritz of Turtle Wax Ice Seal 'n' Shine spray wax as a "detailer" to gently, one-way, wipe off the three panels I was going to work on (hood, roof, top of trunk - the three areas that feel like they have the most environmental pollution "grit"). 3. I didn't buff out the Seal 'n' Shine since I would be going straight to claying with Clay 2.0 afterwards; just wiped it off casually to remove dirt. This first detail wipe was to get rid of any dust that had settled on the car - and yes I could see some on the microfiber. So IMHO always make sure the panels are truly clean first. I think next time I will use a dedicated waterless car wash product for this step - Chemical Guys Swift Wipe has worked well for me. I just stuck with Turtle Wax Ice Seal 'n' Shine throughout so there wouldn't be an unknown blend of sealants and surfactants working together well or poorly. Also, I knew the Clay 2.0 would strip my base coat and wanted to use a single product throughout for detail spray, lube, and final wax/seal. 4. I then sprayed Ice Seal 'n' Shine on HEAVY as the de facto clay lube, and began back and forth (straight) swipes, very light pressure, on just the small portion of panel I had sprayed. 5. I felt light drag from embedded environmental grit. I kept going until the Clay 2.0 felt like a hockey puck sliding on ice. 6. I only worked a small portion at a time. After each portion I heavily sprayed the Clay 2.0, held vertically, until my spray wax/clay lube rinsed off any contaminants. 7. Once on the roof, on one portion enough Seal 'n' Shine had flowed out of the way of the Clay 2.0, or been pushed out of the way, that there was a much higher amount of drag. I believe this is the danger zone - there needs to be plenty of clay lube (or spray wax if you are doing a single-step clay and wax) so that the only drag comes from the micro pinnacles of contaminant, not from the paint itself. Otherwise, you are looking at some corrective work later (risk of micro-scratches). To repeat: you should have enough lubricant that you feel very little drag, assuming your finish was halfway decent to begin with. 8. I was working in shade on a 70 degrees or so day. The Seal 'n' Shine wasn't drying out so I didn't have to wipe up a panel until done with claying it. You don't want to let your clay lube or spray wax used as clay lube dry - it will be more work for you later if you do, since both "official" clay lube and spray wax used "off book" as a clay lube, are supposed to be wiped dry and lightly buffed after, not allowed to dry THEN buffed out. 9. So basically you need to read TWO sets of instruction sheets - the one that comes printed on the packaging for Clay 2.0, and the one for your clay lube or spray wax. BTW a couple of online detailers swear by Adams Spray Detailer as a clay lube. I wanted to try Turtle Wax Ice Seal 'n' Shine due to its reputation for durability, slickness, and water beading. Plus, it's very cheap for what you get, and it's my go to product (actually Ice Spray Wax is my go-to product since I use it the day after applying Ice Seal 'n' Shine then as needed until the next actul Seal 'n' Shine re-wax; I've even used Ice Spray Wax as detailer, and last lightly-dirty waterless car wash). 10. After wiping off most of the Ice Seal 'n' Shine with a rapidly dampening 16x16 microfiber, I went back and very very lightly spritzed each panel or portion of panel with a final light coat of Seal 'n' Shine and followed the instructions on the bottle for application - light, wipe off, buff with clean dry panel of microfiber. Wow the result was excellent, finally the slickness without intermittent grit. 11. In terms of tactile feel, the result was just what I wanted. Super slick, and NO "invisible grit" here and there to mar the slickness. Rich, deep shine - Clay 2.0 will physically attack and thereby remove your prior wax or sealant, hence my reason for using an actual base layer product and not just a dedicated clay lube product. One YouTube detailer objects to the trend of using a spray was as a clay lube, claiming it recycles dirt back into the finish, but IMHO he's wrong, modern synthetic sealants don't trap and "glue" contaminants to the surface during application and removal; they are micro-layers that these days often chemically bond directly to the paint, they aren't carnauba natural was that could bury micro grit underneath. YMMV however - in a perfect world, wash after claying with Clay 2.0 and do the wax/sealant application as a completely separate step. Still, if you use Mothers clay lube or any other dedicated product, first and foremost follow the bottle instructions, which may call for a simple wipe-off, or for a wipe-off and light buff. 12. A related myth - that clay lubes are just lubes, and don't contain their own synthetic sealants/waxes. I haven't checked out all of them, but most of the popular ones seem to contain some polymers (synthetics) for shine and protection and water beading. They might not be the most durable, but they are better than what car washes spray on during their wash cycle. 13. Dripping off - my flat panels were easy-peasy. I worry about vertical panels - will enough of my clay lube/spray wax as clay lube stay in place to properly lube the Clay 2.0? I think the solution is to work with much smaller areas and just re-lube more frequently. 14. Ridges, curves etc. - Clay 2.0 has a perfectly flat working surface, and despite having a slightly flexible foam pad between the actual working material and the plastic mouse/hockey puck hand grip, it doesn't conform to ridges very well at all. Besides being hard to find an angle to make contact, there is risky of hitting the edges of ridges with too much pressure. I think a mitt or traditional clay bar would be better for these spots, and I might have to keep a traditional clay bar handy when I do the full car. 15. Why it has to be replaced after 20 cars: Unlike conventional or synthetic clay, the Clay 2.0 doesn't permanently load up with grit and contaminants (it loads up temporarily while using, which is why you need to spray it off or dip it in a buck of water). So you don't have to throw it away because it has become a danger to your vehicle's finish. As far as I can see, the tacky surface that does the actual hard work just eventually wears out like the sole of a pair of shoes. While the Clay 2.0 is attacking grit in your paint, your paint (and it's grit) are attacking the mousepad-like sticky working surface. I guess we just pay attention when it isn't taking grit off anymore. 16. Using the Clay 2.0 to remove tar, splats, etc: I think although Mothers indicates Clay 2.0 is good for spot clean up, I think this is the wrong tool for the job. Clay 2.0 is already asked to do an incredibly hard job - be abrasive enough to slice off that grit we feel when we rub our fingers over a freshly waxed panel, but be soft enough not to micro scratch the paint itself. It's essential to use lots of lube and also light pressure (you don't power the grit off, you gently slice it off with very little pressure). Dirt spots should be removed with your normal car wash and a microfiber, not with an inherently abrasive product, even if on the scale of things Clay 2.0 isn't very abrasive. 17. Degrees of abrasiveness. Synthetic clay bars are sold in varying degrees of abrasiveness. Clay 2.0 is not. There's no fine-tuning, except in terms of the amount of pressure you apply. Start out cautiously. 18. Clay mitt. By now all of us have figured out we have to rotate our microfiber cloths because no matter how hard we try, our pressure is NEVER perfectly even - there are always hot spots. On vehicle panels were the Clay 2.0 will fit pretty flat against the surface, the pressure IS even. That's actually great compared to a mitt. With a mitt or a cloth you have to be more careful about evenness of pressure. That having been said, the Clay 2.0 doesn't handle ridges very well at all. 19. I have really low standards. I only clay the panels likely to be touched. So the lower half of side panels won't get as much TLC. Ditto the bumpers. 20. The instructions call for rinsing the active surface periodically during use. Don't forget! 21. And the finale - I'm not completely satisfied using Ice Seal 'n' Shine as clay lube. It does the lube part really well, but to get it to work that way I have to use a LOT, and Ice Seal 'n' Shine ideally likes to be applied VERY lightly when it's doing its job as sealant. I'm not seeing the evenness I want to after slathering Seal 'n' Shine on the panels. Maybe I was wrong to do a whole panel at a time, maybe I should have wiped and buffed after shorter segments. I will re-inspect it over the next few days, especially in better light, and also after applying a top coat of Ice Spray Wax (or redoing the Seal 'n' Shine and paying more attention to the dryness of my wipe/buff microfiber surfaces). Next time, I will also think about getting some Adams Detail Spray and trying that on some other panels as the clay lube. No, I don't think water has enough lubricating properties to safely clay with.

Faster and More Practical Than Clay!

The last time I used a traditional clay bar, I was so tired that I just could not finish and gave up without claying the roof. Speed Clay 2.0 is far more practical. First of all, because the surface is a rubber polymer, it does not require kneading and you can simply hose off the surface when dirt is embedded so I was less likely to scratch paint. The speed clay is used exactly like regular clay in that it is moved *unidirectionally* and in straight lines. However, because of the shape, it is easy to lift and put back down (covering surface area quickly). The downside is that it requires significantly more lubricant (Mother's Instant Detailer) than real clay to effectively shear off surface contaminants. I had to use 3/4 of a bottle of Mother's Instant Detailer on a single Honda Accord that had been washed weekly. Regular clay takes around 2 hours. This took around 30-40 minutes to clay. The surface is equally smooth compared to clay but required multiple passes depending on how much dirt was embedded.

Will purchase again and again!!

This is the best product I’ve invested in for my car. Simple and easy to use with extraordinary results. Also, great value! The product itself is a like a hard foam on top, which was easy to grip with individual grooves so your fingers sit on top and it becomes easy to move back and forth on the car. I can say 1.5hrs later on my muscle car, never slipped out of my hands. The bottom of this product is a thin layer of semi- soft clay with indentations/small ridges, not completely flat. Between the red top and the clay, is a soft foam which allows movement and easier handling while you move the product between your hand and grooves of the car. It’s simple to use as well. I washed my car prior. Then, wet my car really good, dipped the clay in clean soapy water and then used on my car with an easy back and forth motion until it felt smooth. I could literally see the clean soapy water turn to dirty suds after every stroke. This was after being completely washed! Just goes to show pollutants, car grime, and roads take a toll on car paint. I’d say 75% less muscle and time used than the traditional clay. Mother’s really hit it out of the park with this one. Packaging says reusable for up to 20 vehicles. I will def continue to purchase! Very pleased with the mirror-like shine and reflection I got after waxing. My car truly feels clean.

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