• High Quality Steel and Aluminum Construction
  • Cut Cedar, Walnut and Oak into High Quality Lumber
  • High-Quality Mill Cuts Beams or Lumber from 0.5“ ”To 13“ Thick and 36” Wide
  • Attaches to saw without drilling bar
  • Lower price

The mill works well on my 576xp Husqvarna. There are no real 'instructions' on assembly but you can figure it out. Some parts are different from the schematic picture that comes with it (nuts are smaller, some washers missing). But once it is together I have had no problems. The ruler scale for slab thickness is a little off; 1" on the ruler makes about a 1.25" slab. Not a big deal if you are planing anyway. Would recommend

I bought this for my husband not really knowing what it did. He made the slab wood for these benches and the table with this tool. Awesome!!!

Bought this for a specific job. A large oak tree had died on my new property, and I thought it would be cool to make a fireplace mantle. Worked great! Measurements on riser bars are not accurate, but I would use a tape anyway. well worthe the price.

Got it on time and have to say I was pretty impressed with the quality of the parts. The aluminum rails are very well finished and the steel parts appear to be chromed. Being an "off brand" I honestly expected to see some crude parts but this thing is sturdy, well built and looks really good. I mean really good. I'd defiantly buy it again. I will only update if its fuction does not match its build quality, so if I don't update this it's safe to assume I'm in the timber making up slabs! Thanks Carmyra and Farmertech! Oh, I will add.....the directions stink, just an exploded view and parts list but very doable with common sense.

This is very cool. We had some big beautiful trees go down and I did not have the heart to turn it into all firewood. We got this and it is awesome. It will guide your chainsaw to cut boards to however thick you want. I now have wood drying so we can make an attempt at making stuff from the trees on our property. I also have a 5" thick X 10' piece of walnut drying. My wife wants me to make it into a mantel. Could be very cool with the live edge. Who knows, I may have found a new hobby. The one issue I had was my own fault. I was cutting through the logs and did not stop to make sure the chain was oiled. As you can guess, I smoked my chainsaw. It is at the 3rd shop now to try and fix it, if this place cannot fix it, I will have to buy a new chainsaw. Again, this was my fault and a warning to everyone else. Learn from my mistake.

Aside from the fact that I had to wander off to find my own lock washers (not included in hardware pack) It assembled easily. Instructions consist only of a drawing and parts identification. It works very nicely. The scales stamped into the uprights bear little relation to the depth of cut, however. Once set up, how does it work? Very nicely. Very flat and true (considering you're using a chainsaw) slabs, consistent thickness. Well worth the price.

I bought this mill to make lumber for wood shop projects. The local store doesn’t sell slabs of sufficient thickness for what I want to do so I wanted to make my own. This mill does the job perfectly. I have it mounted to my Stihl 461 with a 32” bar. I bought a ripping chain for milling and highly recommended that you do so as well. A standard chain should have a cutter angle of around 30° where the ripping chain has a cutter angle of only 10°. It is also sharpened with a special flat/angled file instead of a round file. It is made for milling and should not be used for general cutting. There are no step by step instructions for assembly, but it comes with a schematic that shows how to put it together. It took me about half an hour. Mounting it on the saw is pretty strait forward. Just make sure you clamp it where the sprocket/tip meets the bar, not on the sprocket rivets. Doing so will compress the tip and not allow the sprocket in the tip to spin freely, ruining your bar which can get expensive. I get about 25" of useable bar with the 32" bar. I could probably get another inch if I were to take the dogs off the powerhead but that’s a lot of work for minimal benefit. When milling, go slow and make sure you support the slab with wedges or shims to keep the weight of the slab off the bar. Let the saw do the work and don’t rush it. For the first cut, I made a rail out of some 1x4 and scrap 2x4 pieces. I secure this to the log with screws on the bigger end first and measure to my intended line which I draw with a level on the log end. On the smaller end I shim up the rail to a similar line the opposite log end. I then set the mill for that thickness and make my first cut. For subsequent cuts the mill rests right on the previous cut without the rail. There are videos on YouTube showing how this works. Overall, I am happy with this little mill. It makes accurate cuts of any thickness. I was surprised at the weight. It is very light and easy to use. If you’re wanting to mill your own lumber I highly recommend this mill.

Great mill jig. Easy to put together, all parts came with it. First time using it I had a Stihl 064AV saw with 32 inch bar attached to it and it worked fine..

Used this to mill up a cedar tree that I had cut down in my backyard. Produced some pretty consistent slabs. Easy to put together and use. With a 36" bar this barely fit though. The chain break gets in the way a bit and the clamp on the nose of the saw requires a very specific amount of pressure to avoid shifting (too loose) or stopping the chain from moving (too tight).

Best price on Alaska mill. All my hardware was there and it was easily assembled. 10 minutes without help, using the included scrench. A milling/ripping chain will cut a little smoother, but a regular chain will cut fine for less money and easier sharpening. Depends on what you want to do with the wood.