Features:

  • FITMENT : This clutch pedal fix is compatible with 1988-1997 F150, F250, F350, F450, F550 powerstroke, heavy duty, BRONCO.
  • DURABILITY: All steel and zinc plated self-aligning joint ensures superb durability and precision.
  • USAGE: This is the "permanent fix/repair kit" for worn out rod end plastic bushing and/or clutch lever pin.
  • CONVENIENCE: Both instruction and necessary installation accessories are included for your convenience.
  • WARRANTY: Backed by 1-year warranty for worry-free purchase experiences.
Please read. "Instruction/step-by-step" and review!

Ok...I was going to make a "how to" video but I've never posted anything like that so I'll write as detailed a review/instructions to help others. This install IS NOT for the faint of heart... To remove the clutch control lever, mine was closer to 18mm and was tight as heck, the lever is "press fit" so it requires a small pry bar working it back and forth until removed. Cutting of the slave cylinder rod. I tried a hacksaw, but this thing is hardened steel. So much that, it is harder than the hardened steel clutch lever. Mine was about half ate through from wear. So...I used a worn cutoff wheel(so that it's small enough to get into tight spaces). I cut VERY close to the "ring" on the slave cylinder. Factory makes them "belled out" near the ring so it required some filing to make it fit into the heim sleeve. Removing the factory pin was intense...I used a grinder on factory weld and it actually drives out from the side opposite the pin, once it is out, It requires drilling the hole out a little to use the supplied bolt. When it's time to reinstall clutch lever, I just made sure as I tightened the clutch lever press fit back into place(a little at a time) making sure that "all the way out" was in the right spot. I hope this helps. I have a decent amount of mechanic/shop tools and it took me about 1.5 hours start to finish. Afterthoughts: the clutch feel significantly better. No more slop. I just finished this and haven't driven it, but I started the truck and rocked it forward/reverse for "clutch grab feel". It is already a definite improvement!

Easy install, fixes oem shortfalls!

I installed this in my 89 f350 with a zf5 manual transmission. Overall? 5 stars easy, it took all the slop and play out of my clutch pedal assembly, and some of the friction too. My pedal is butter smooth and easy to push now. I had installed a new clutch slave/master combo from luk, and, of course, the oem plastic bushing had broken soon after. I have a factory style luk clutch, so there wasn't any extra pressure from a high performance clutch.... Plastic still broke. I've had this heim joint setup Orion sells for 3-4 weeks now, and it's way better than the oem stuff. Hardest part was cutting the ring off the end of the stock pushrod on the master cylinder. I ordered a new oem Ford lever as well, ground the weld off the stud, and punched out the pivot stud. I still had to drill the hole out to fit the Allen bolt that comes with the Orion part.

NO MORE PLASTIC CLIPS BREAKING LEAVING YOU STRANDED!

NO MORE PLASTIC CLIPS BREAKING LEAVING YOU STRANDED! Only thing better would be if they packaged this with the lever arm drilled and ready to go. You will need a new one of those lever arms (if you are doing it right) and will need to drill out the existing pin and put the bolt in it's place. (Trying to use the old lever arm is problematic ad tightening the arm to the pedal assembly the first time cuts grooves into the metal, and there is no way to assure a tight fit in trying to reuse it) Beats my old solution of fashioning a busing out of brass to fit the worn push rod opening!

Nice upgrade thanks

Worked out great no more stupid clutch linkage plastic clips breaking I used a cut off wheel and cut the end of shaft of while it was still in truck it was easier to do it that way vs trying to get the linkage out of master cylinder and the arm on pedal I took it off and ground the stud of flush with side of arm and punched the rest of it out there was no need in boring hole out bigger the bolt fit perfectly took me about 20 min if that to do whole job. Now I feel so much better knowing I won't have it pop off again. You can see from picture where to cut the rod

Way better than another plastic bushing

My clutch had a lot of play in it before install. It would engage about an inch on the floor and most of my gears would grind a little. Now, it engages bear the top where it should. I didnt uninstall the clutch master so doing all of the work between the seat, steering wheel and dash wasnt the most comfortable. The hardest part was getting the clutch lever off of the shaft because of the angle. After grinding and punching out the stud, I used a dremel to cut off the eyelet on the clutch master. And installed everything. Took about 2 hours. 1.5 hours was just trying to get the arm out

Best quick fix for long term.

No more replacing the entire system with this quick fix. I did weld mine in place and has out lasted the factory ones I broke 4....yes 4 of these at a cost of 3500$ at the dealer. I did use it on a F650 Super duty box truck. I machined the rod down to size and welded in place. Solid bearing and not that plastic bearing they gave me in the new system. I have a full machine shop so it took 5 mins and welded. Reinstalled in 15 mins back into truck and has lasted longer than factory.

Permanent fix for the "Mickey mouse" clips

After replacing dozens of the "Mickey mouse" clips, I decided I needed a permanent solution. This was it! Very happy with this purchase. It fixed the problem, and was very easy to install. Didn't take too long either. Watching the YouTube videos definetly helped. I would definitely recommend this!

A great investment

I would recommend buying the clutch pedal lever as well or you will be waiting for that part also. As for people saying that they had to by pass their safety switch, they must have cut their rod to short, just take your time with it. Mine starts with the safety switch plugged in.

Fixes worn out clutch master cylinder eyelets

Replaced the cheesy pot metal & bushing setup Ford used from the factory on the clutch pedal rods. Takes a little time & skill to install obviously but man going from 3 inches of clutch pedal slop to virtually none is huge!

Do it

If you think you need this - you do. Have two pickups - one I used a heim from a hardware store to fix the clutch and now my interlock switch doesn't fit (and therefore neither does cruise control). The other I used this clutch pedal end and everything works perfectly. I shoved some steel shavings down where the master cylinder rod goes to prevent the set screw from having to hold perfect adjustment all by itself. But that may only have been necessary since my rod end was already quite oval.

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