• Fits: Creality CR-10 / CR-10S / CR-10-S5 / CR-10 MINI / CR-10-S4 / Ender 2 / Ender 3 / TronXY X5S
  • Orifice size: .4mm
  • Kit Includes: Aluminum Cooling Block, Grade 5 Titanium Heat Break, Aluminum Heater Block, Brass Plated Wear Resistant MK8 .4mm Nozzle, Silicone Sock
  • This is a Drop in All Metal Conversion Kit for CR-10 printers
  • Made in USA by Micro Swiss

GOBSMACKED! I have this on my completely modded and upgraded CR-10S. I don't even know how to start this review. I am more than happy with the improvement the Micro Swiss made for my printing style. Let's start with the installation - there are many you tube videos showing an installation method using the existing heater block. DONT USE THE OLDHEATER BLOCK - IT SUCKS. It comes with an upgraded and improved heater block that grasps the heating element better with more contact, and the thermal sensor rests several mm further inside the block now giving much more accurate readings. I was able to heat the block up to 200c in around 20-25 seconds. Simply letting more of the heating element come into contact with the block itself is much more efficient for heat transfer. Extrusion - this is when I got a big smile. When it extrudes and stops - the filament almost falls off rather than make a long thinning string and it droops downwards. A perfect example of how well the cooling end is working in tandem with the titanium heat-choke. Less heat sneeking up into the cooling block means less excess filament sneaking down and making strings. Its so simple and works so well. I was pushing filament through it and when I stopped, not a moment too late, it stopped extruding unlike the stock hot end that would have globs come out as it heated up. Yeah youll get a TINY amount but nowhere near what the stock hot end did. I designed a torture test that is a dense ring on the first layer (mainly to assess bed plate adhesion and level), Im using this on an ANYCUBI UltraBase (which really sucks but is super level), and long story short - the extruder was consistent under torture loads around 200mm/s! LOL I would never print at this speed but it was aboe to melt and keep melting flawlessly. Won me OVER! The quality and craftsmanship of the parts is AAA quality. The heat break is solid machined and polished titanium. The metal threading was medical or aircraft grade at first glance. Enough said - go buy one!

I've only printed one thing with this upgraded part so this review will be based off of my initial thoughts. I received the part a couple of days BEFORE I expected it which was delightful. I have read that this part was originally slightly different than it is now and that some people had problems with it. I received the latest version and it was a piece of cake to install. I had it installed and working in about 15 minutes. It heats up much faster than the stock hot end, probably because of the silicon sock, but I'm guessing the metal alloy of the new heater block is better as well. It did require a slight adjustment to the bed level, but no more so than any time I have replaced a nozzle on the original hot end. I have only printed in PLA with a file that does require some retraction. This file in particular was causing problems with the original hot end because of the retractions. I assume that pulling so much hot plastic up into the hot end increased heat creep which led to clogs and under extrusion. That's only my guess, but this replacement handled the file with no problems. I have not tried it yet with higher temp materials. If I do, and my experience changes, I'll be sure to amend this review. The original hot end worked great when new, but quickly wore out. By the end I had to trim a cm of PTFE tube off every 50 hours of printing or so because of heat damage. I'm hoping this all metal design lasts much longer. I'll follow up if it doesn't.

I got this so I could print hotter materials and also have an all metal hot end. The install was easy but I would recommend being careful because I was taking off the old nozzle and it broke so it got stuck in the heat block. Otherwise it was really easy. I also realised that it is listed to be able to do 300c however on a cr10 you must update the firmware using an arduino.

I wanted to print some higher-temp materials on my CR-10s and this was a straightforward replacement. Does not replace the heater or thermistor - you use the OEM parts for that.

I cannot be happier with the MS All Metal Hotend. MS has an install video that clearly shows how to do the upgrade. I never built and installed a complete hotend and it was so easy. The only problem I ran into was not being able to push the PTFE deep enough so it was coming in/out freely. I contacted support and they immediately replied and helped with this. I was being too careful and needed to push a little harder. After I heated it up and did the final adjustment to the nozzle I was ready to go. The first thing you will have to change is the amount of retraction. This hotend clearly says that you should not go above 4mm of retraction. I ran some stringing tests with 0.5mm increments and in my case the best results came with: Retraction: 3mm Retraction speed: 50 mm/s Deretraction speed: 20 mm/s Retract amount before wipe: 10% (not sure if this setting was needed) I also cut the original PTFE shorter and this should help with the amount of retraction needed since the filament has less (total) slack inside of the tube. I can print now hotter materials without the concern of toxic fumes coming from the PTFE tube. No more concerns of gaps between the PTFE tube and the nozzle creating clogs. This upgrade is highly recommended and dead easy to do.

I got this to replace my stock hot end on my Tevo Tornado. I wasn't going to replace the nozzle until I had a pretty significant failure with it, but when that happened I decided to go for it. The package arrived, and I started disassembling the old hot end first impression, just based on looks and feel, I was impressed. It was about 1/3 the weight of the original, and flawlessly produced. Not one rough edge, or scratch. I quickly realized that I didn't have the heater block, at first I thought I may have ordered a kit that wasn't supposed to come with one. After a bit of research on my order I realized it was just missing from the package. I call Micro Swiss, and after about 1.5 rings a real live human being answered the phone! I almost couldn't speak, I was in such shock. I explained my issue, he said to go on their website, hit the contact us button, send in an email and add your transaction id number to the mail and we'll ship a new heater block right out to you. I submitted my email and within 5 minutes, I had a tracking number, for priority mail from Minnesota to New Jersey. It was the most painless experience of my life, and was such a pleasure to deal with them. I doubt I'll ever replace my hot end again.

Shipping was super fast, I got it in 3 days and that was ordering right after Christmas. The install is easy, it took me about 20 minutes and that was just me taking my time. If you're unsure about it, there's a tutorial on Youtube that simplifies it. Also, you will have to most likely turn down your retraction settings because this is all metal with much less friction. I set mine to 2.5mm for the distance, and 45mm/s for speed and it's running really good now. Just tweak the settings and print the xyz cube. Now I can print pretty much anything without worrying about damaging the PTFE tube. Highly recommend!

I bought a cheap one. Could not even get a single print out of it. Not sure what metal they used on the cheap one (crushed pop cans, maybe?), but the Micro Swiss is lightyears ahead of both the stock hot end, and the cheap clones. The MS eliminates the problem of the feed tube heating up and warping, leaking hot plastic all over. It also seems to heat more evenly. Since installing, I have eliminated all of my flaws in layering. where there would be a rough spot on an area that was supposed to be smooth. Must have upgrade for Ender 3 Pro

The heat break tube on my Ender 3 broke and I was searching around for a replacement. Rather than buy another OEM one, which seems to be prone to the heat break tube breaking, I opted for this. I was skeptical at first since I was buying a hot end that costs 1/3rd of my printer but I couldn't be happier with my purchase. The build quality is outstanding and you'd have to go out of your way to break this thing. A HUGE plus is this hotend is bolt on and go. No need to print brackets for it or anything special, just unscrew the old hotend and screw this one right on. If you're only printing PLA there's really no need to upgrade to this, but if your hotend breaks spend the extra cash and go with this. I know it's tempting to get a knock-off, but my friend bought a clone of this hotend and the build quality is night and day.

So far absolutely no complaints. Unexpected benefit is that I can now print ABS at 260 C which produces a much better bonding than the typically quoted 235-240 temp range. Have set my retraction to 2mm and so far no stringing and no clogging. Will report back once I've done a month's worth of prints.