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I started hearing some weird thumping in my vehicle's front end and noticed it was getting wobbly... i looked under the truck and it was instantly obvious: the swaybar link had snapped. Dang it.... as usual, amazon to the rescue. The replacement part is radically different from the mostly-plastic OEM part, but it fits in fine. You'll need a 5/8" combo wrench, 11/16 socket, small plastic hammer, and a floor jack. Jack up the **OPPOSITE SIDE** to raise the sway bar and give yourself a little space to work with. It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes per side to install. [2011 Ford Ranger, 2wd]

I’ve been running these end links for 7 months and they’ve held up fine. I didn’t use loctite and the nuts haven’t come loose. I don’t deal with rust since I live in Florida so I can’t speak on that. But they’re good for the price. I ended up replacing the bushings with the 9.8103G bushings from Energy Suspension since they’re bigger. The bolts are 7/16 and the new bushings fit them perfectly. I included photos with a tape measure for reference. Use some 3M silicone paste on the bushings and they won’t squeak. Update: 6 months later and the sleeves have rust on them. This is just from driving in the Florida rain. I imagine it would be worse if there’s salt on the road. It would be a good idea to paint them before install. Other than that they’re still holding up.

Good price, good product, made in America what could be better? These fit my 2008 Mercury Mountaineer perfectly. Easy install, just remove and replace. If your old ones are rusted on just cut them off with a wheel saw instead of breaking your back trying to get the old nuts off. Firmed up my steering and handling. These new bushing exposed my worn out shock absobers so those are next. Easy install in the driveway with basic hand tools. Bushings appear to be of good quality, just don't over torque them. They should be snug but the bushings shouldn't appear "squished".

This was a perfect fit for my 2001 ranger. When you install them I suggest you cut the old ones off with a sawzall or grinder with a cutoff wheel. It will make the job much easier. You must install both sides at the same time. Jack up the vehicle from the frame to facilitate the installation. 11/16 socket and a 5/8 wrench will be needed. These took out some front end noise that my truck had.

After hearing clunks around corners for a month I finally heard a loud 'sprong!' while pulling my Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) into a parking spot. I looked underneath to find one of my sway bar links had snapped! After a quick search on Amazon these seemed like the best value for a pair of links, while the local parts stores wanted nearly the same money for a single link. They arrived next day, disassembled, with tightening instructions. The distance between the control arm and sway bar are nearly identical when compared to the old link. The bolt itself is a little shorter but there is enough there to safely hold everything together with the supplied nut. Installation was dead simple. The hardest part was taking the old rusted ones off! Best part is I didn't even have to remove the wheels! Just turn the wheels all the way left or right to access them easily. Everything seems to be quiet around turns and the front end seems to handle a little firmer. Highly recommend a set of these if you're in need of some new sway bar links!

Didn’t realize how bad my pickup was in need of these until I replaced them. Also the old ones were not a matched set, so the previous owner only replaced one and it didn’t match. Now the ride and cornering are much improved for this 98 Ranger.

Great replacement part for my 1999 Ford Explorer. Install was relatively easy with a bit of planning. I had to trim the lip of the bushing in order to get the nut to grab somexthread. Your experience may vary. Be sure to not tighten too much. Follow instructions

Fit like a glove! If you are having trouble removing the old ones after using PB blaster, use a vise grap to hold it and carefully cut them off with a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. DON'T HIT BRAKE LINES, FUEL LINES, ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE SHAFT! Be smart and take your time.

I replaced worn sway bar linkage on a 2004 2wd Ford Ranger. These were a great replacement. The OEM rubber bushings were missing and all was left was the bolt. The new replacements are better made having neoprene instead of rubber. I like the fact they are made in the USA.