• 【Fast Slicing Software】ELEGOO Mars comes with the latest version of ChiTu Box Slicing Software which gives you extraordinary user experience. ChiTu Box takes only 1 minute to slice 30Mb .stl model files while the open-sourced slicing software would take up to 10minutes.
  • 【Resin saving and Better Printing】ChiTu Box allows you to hollow out your model before slicing which could save your resin dramatically during photocuring process. Equiped with 40W UV lights and using ELEGOO resin, you can get a better pritning result.
  • 【Smart and Convenient】3.5'' inch color touch screen equipped with the latest ELEGOO ChiTu 5.0 system makes it very easy for off-line printing. The build platform with steel ball balancing structure inside allows you to start printing within 5 minutes after assembly.
  • 【High Precision and Resolution】ELEGOO Mars uses a 2560x1440 2K HD masking LCD as to provide accurate printing with XY axis resolution of 0.00185inches / 0.047mm
  • 【Warranty and Service】We provide total one-year machine warranty (5.5'' inch 2K LCD and FEP film excluded) and if you have any questions regarding product operation or software please feel free to contact us

. . . I have been sooo happy with this printer. After an initial frustration trying to figure things out and several failed prints, I am getting high-quality, consistent results now almost every time. Their customer support is exceptionally good too with fast replies and a dedicated team. Once you have good settings figured out for whatever particular resin you are using, the results and print quality are amazing. I love it. When you buy it, find the Elegoo Mars owners fb group, a small but good group that has been really helpful for me.

I ordered the Elegoo Mars around the first of the year. My experience has been positive overall. The support is very good, and I found that using the facebook Elegoo Mars group is very helpful as well. Some pros and cons: Pros: -Very easy to set-up and use (software is relatively simple to use). Far fewer settings to adjust vs FDM printers (only 5 or 6 settings really make a difference in the end product) -Less finicky than FDM printers (not as susceptible to print fails from factors like first layer adhesion/settings). It's very forgiving. -Incredible detail and resolution -Good support -Resin is ideal for painting -Relatively low maintenance Cons: -A bit messy -A bit smelly (not as bad as people mention IMO). -A bit slow. Not a true con, because DLP laser resin printers are expensive, commercial grade printers for higher volume application. -Elegoo resin sticks to everything and transfers easily. 99% isopropyl/ethyl are the only readily available solvents to remove resin from surfaces. (Tip: after printing, rinse with 99% isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, then water, then alcohol and water again.) -Quality control: I had to return first 2 units. First one had an issue where the rising and lowering metal plate would not detach from FEP during first several layers. SOLUTION: add a piece of painters tape to corner of LCD screen, under FEP film, but do not cover active pixel area! (Issue is a vacuum is created that cannot detach).....Second printer had to be returned because units are susceptible to a part knocking loose during shipment, which will cause the UV lamp to turn off randomly. I found tapping the side of the unit helps temporarily, but it is shorting out. Support has a solution to fix it yourself. Just wrap it in an insulator that doesn't conduct electricity (I deferred to the amazon exchange process). Some tips: The printer has a relatively easy learning curve. Default settings in Chitubox 1.3 are ok, but not ideal. For Elegoo transparent resin, I use a minimum of 8 seconds per layer at 0.05mm height. For opaque resins, I use 11-12 seconds per layer at 0.05mm. As a default, I use 8 bottom layers at 30 seconds each. I don't change settings for different layer heights. For most models, especially ones with large internal volume, be sure to add a drain hole in the software or manually with a drill bit after printing. If you drill too small a hole, another hole to let air may be necessary. -Always check the resin reservoir after printing and especially after fails for resin that is stuck to the TPE film and loose in the leftover resin. They include filters for this. -When picking models and preparing a print, you should use any empty area of the print bed for additional models. The only thing affecting print speed is the height of your models. You can print as many models simultaneously as you can fit on the bed without affecting print speed as long as you don't add a taller model. (This is not the case with FDM printers). -Get a nail curing lamp or put your models in the sun to cure for 30 min-1 hour for increased strength. Too long will change the color of some resins (like elegoo transparent). -Try the transparent resin at least once. Transparent resin prints the fastest and you can also calibrate and level your bed without having to empty the resin and clean it (you can see through to the LCD screen to align the ballast without removing the resin). --Another reason, is that transparent resin allows you to see the internal structure of your model. You can see the infill grid and see if any resin is trapped. I didn't understand the importance of a drain hole in some models until I used transparent resin and saw liquid resin moving freely in a finished model. Despite needing to make an exchange, my overall experience has been very positive. For $500, I think it is a great deal relative to other resin printers with similar abilities and performance. I would definitely make the purchase again.

This is my first resin printer, but I've been printing with FDM for about 9 years now. This printer is simply awesome. Very solidly built, and the quality is top notch. The instruction manual is not your typical mishmash of english and just like they said within 5 minutes I was printing the sample model. I was very nervous that it wouldn't come out but it printed perfectly!!!! Like someone else said there's a minor learning curve on how to slice models for a SLA printer, but I found a few videos and now I'm printing away. I love this printer, and I also love how it was packed, very well with nice foam and I've kept the box and foam to transport the printer and it protects it great. If you're familiar with FDM printer I highly recommend giving this one a try, you won't be dissappointed. But do remember it takes longer to print but you are getting AMAZING quality parts. Everyone I'm showing the prints too cannot believe it is from a printer.

Coming from ZERO, 3D modeling skills. Now one week later. I can do basic modeling, and proficient knowledge in using slicer software and mesh softwares... This machine was my entry point into the world of 3D printing. With years of window shopping for printers, I simply could not resist to take a look at this printer and jumped head in after doing weeks of research on Elegoo. To my surprise unlike many other printers. Elegoo seem to consistently have amazing prints according to several youtubers, forums, reddit, and even facebook pages. I could not believe the detail achievable in these printers for next to nothing compared to printers years ago, the ones I windowed shopped for... And even those couldn't produce prints like this! LCD/DLP printers is truly the new kid in town. I can see these flooding everywhere because they are so simple to use! I was worried I'd have to learn so much more just to get things started. But the included software and the manual made it almost too easy to run. My unboxing experience was close to that of a little child on Christmas. I'm a grown ass man! And yet I couldn't wait to get this in 48 hours with my Prime membership. The box itself was so well packaged, with foam inserts and the entire printer encased in foam from Elegoo. Yet shockingly, my acrylic case had a small crack. I quickly taped the crack up, and contemplated my return.... But I wanted to print stuff... At least the cover was still useable to prevent UV light from shining in. Oh eff it. I started her up, did the quick procedure in the manual and in 30 minutes of installing the software and looking on youtube to make sure I didn't mess anything up. I want printing my first model. Jesus Christ does this print in DEEEEEETAIL. No FDM printer can print such fine resolutions of 0.04725mm (the size of a single pixel, on their 2k LCD screen!) But it wasn't perfect. I had this small wavy line in my print consistently every 2mms on my Z axis. I'm a perfectionist what can I say? Searched some online help and found that if you adjust the Z Nut/Eccentric Nut it'll improve stability. And it did! I emailed Elegoo support about the case, not thinking I'd ever get a reply... But behold, next day. They responded. In perfect english! Not to be racist, but I've dealt with many Asian vendors, and this guy's got his english down! After speaking to their Customer Rep, they are sending my a replacement case, and have been constantly giving tips on the machine. While I shared my ideas for improvement, it actually seemed well received and I striked a positive conversation with their CS rep in efforts to help dumb people like me in working their machine. Pros: LOW Costs! Customer Service IS ON POINT! Print Detail Easy Leveling (in comparison to other printers in its class) Stock deviation accuracy on the X axis is <0.1% , and 0.5% on the Y Axis. The Z axis seems less than <0.1% and heavily dependent on settings, and leveling. Initial tweaking of the chassis in order to get 0.0425mm +/- accuracy. I'm certain I've created a Elegoo MARS beyond whats normal. There is also a mods already available and commonplace. Join the forums! Cons: Resin prints are quite smelly, and messy. Limited "engineering" resins due to weaker UV light compared to SLA printers. Seems to several pioneers in mixing resins however! Overall. I simply could not give this a 4/5. Regardless of the small Cons I had initially. Quite honestly, the tweaking I did made this machine simply more 'mine'. I personally love tinkering with things as things to me are rarely ever to my standards. But, for $360? Sure I'll stick in my elbow grease to mod this thing to a printer nearly worth double/triple of what I paid for it. Beginner tips that helped me. Resins is VERY brittle when fully cured. Buy some monocure flex100 resin, and mix your Elegoo Resins (Cheapest I've found), with 10 Elegoo Resin with 1 part Monocure flex100. This takes the edge off the brittleness. And almost a required mixture for durable prints that can be dropped/tipped without heartache. Some people seem to mix a higher ratio of 75%/25% for mixtures nearing the plasticity of ABS Plastic, yet significantly stronger. Opaque resins seem to take longer than transparent resins. I usually increase my bottom layers, bottom layer exposures, and normal exposures by almost 30 on opaque Resins. Opaque depending on size of model... Stick with 8-12 bottom layers. (12 for something the size of the max parameters of the printer). 70-90 second bottom exposure times, with 10-12 seconds normal exposure times. Transparent resints can be 6-8 layers. 50-65 bottom exposure, and 5-8 seconds. I usually stick with 0.05mm layer heights. I did experiment with lower, but considering each pixel is 0.04725mm. Having a layer less than the pixel itself would simply just increase the print times. I would only suggest going sub 0.05mm for prints being tilted on its axis for better layering and less suction effect. I added scotch tape around my tempered screen. To prevent the FEP from sticking to the screen as hard. Seemed to improve my print quality by a lot, and less items stuck to my FEP sheet. A lot of people mentioned about using PTFE oil on the FEP sheet. I can't seem to tell if its doing any better. Seems like more people use thinner FEP sheets instead of the stock 0.2mm sheet. in favor for 0.1-0.15mm sheets for 'better' print quality on the beginning layers. But its at a point where the detail is going beyond what my eyes can see. I'm excited to see new products from Elegoo. With the way their customer support is, and how well this machine runs for its cost factored in. These guys are going to do well. As avid airsoft hobbiest, I'm surprised this thing is made in China, considering the high quality screws they use alone. I've worked on many asian products, and the one thing I could always talk smack on is lack of quality screws. I can't on this. As a guy who replaces nearly every screw on any items I can tell there is some quality components going into this product.

The printer is really well made and works as advertised. I had a few small issues with build platform adhesion but I think that is related to the ambient temperature being a little cool in my basement where the printer is located. Both the white and clear resins yellowed when post curing in UV light but if you were painting the items that's a non issue.

I should begin by saying that I'm currently backing the Sparkmaker FHD on Kickstarter but it looks like they're missing their commitments by a few months and I'm tired of waitingb because I've been using fdm printers for a few years and have been wanting to try SLA for miniatures. I saw this printer around Christmas time for only $369 with a free bottle of resin and it sounded like a great deal. There were only a few reviews at that time but they were all good so I pulled the trigger. I have to say I have no regrets. This printer has solid metal construction and feels like a quality product. Everything from the instructions to the packing and included accessories is very well put together. I read the instructions and was printing within a few minutes. The photos attached are the results. The included deer model took 12 hours to print but there is no comparison to an Fdm printer. The detail is great. I'm very happy and will update my review once I print a few models of my own.

So, I bought my Elegoo Mars printer after watching the 3d printer market for several years. I decided to go forward with the Mars for several reasons. First, the truly insane print quality I had seen in the reviews on amazon ( I have not yet managed to achieve the smallest print sizes I have seen posted, but I’m sure at this point that it is my inexperience that is the limiting factor, not the machine.) Second was the price, it was a full hundred dollars less than a micromake l2 and was actually available, whereas I had not been able to find a seller I trusted that had the other printer in stock). My third reason was the machine’s build quality. Once I got the machine I assembled (that took about 5 minutes) I started my first print. I’m no veteran of 3d printing (my other printer being a fdm machine) so there was a learning curve, I think we had 3 failures before my wife began following the facebook group, the information there was invaluable in helping us resolve our print issues. After we found out what we were doing wrong the printer has worked just as advertised. The print quality is quite impressive. I’ve been playing pencil and paper RPG’s since I was a kid and have always dreamed of being able to make my own miniatures. With the Mars that dream is now a reality, and I couldn’t be happier. So far Elegoo customer service has been great as well. They are quick to respond and seem to actually care about their customers.

I could only print half of the test object and it failed. Maybe its user error on my part but t seems like it should be able to pring the test that came with the usb, which took 12 hours, should have been something smaller and faster, I will update when the second attempt is done. Edit#1: After emailing the company I was responded to within 6 hours and sent video instructions on how to set up the print settings coorectly, 4 stars for teh printer and the 5th star for good support~ Edit#2: Since reworking the slicer settings this baby has been a total dream, not a single failed print so far Ive printed 4 minis and its been easy going, not layer lines or shifts. Good on you Elegoo for giving us a truly consumer grade product!

Loving this printer. The resolution compared to my other filament printers is remarkable. The slicer program it ships with is very easy to use and fast!

I bought this LCD resin printer because I wanted to be able to print more finely detailed and complex models than can be done with traditional FDM printers. I was getting frustrated breaking mini models trying to remove supports from them off of my Ender 3 and Wanhao i3. Getting the LCD printer was a revelation. This is my first resin setup, so I can't comment on comparisons to others like the Photon - but from what I understand they are extremely similar with the exception of the Elegoo Mars having a more powerful UV lamp setup for faster curing (printing) times. But - what definitely sets the Mars apart is Elegoo and the growing community of people using this device. The group on fb is filled with great people who care and take the time to discuss issues and support one another. And Elegoo is quick to respond, answer questions, and has gone out of their way for many members with warranty support for items that were not covered (user error). I've had good success printing on this but there is a learning curve. Much like FDM printing there are differences you need to get used to (how to orient the model, best places for supports, the unique challenge of edge curling due to FEP suction). But spend some time reading in the group and you'll see lots of answers and advice - and you won't be ridiculed like in other groups when you ask a rookie question. I'd recommend a bit of a shopping list when you buy one. You need a few items to really make the most of this. 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant, 4 OZ to lubricate FEP before filling resin vat. ELEGOO 3D Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin to print with. ELEGOO 1PC FEP Release Film for ELEGOO Mars in case you damage yours (will need eventually anyway). Uvex S0360X Ultra-spec 2000 Safety Eyewear to protect your eyes from UV light. Storage Container with Strainer, 23.0 oz to rinse prints inside before post-curing. Solimo 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to rinse prints before post curing. You likely won't find 99% in local stores and you need 95% or greater. High Power 10W Ultra Violet UV LED Flood Light to post-cure prints with. Rotating UV-powered stand to place prints on during post curing under the lamp. Items to grab locally: nitrile gloves, plastic funnels, fine-micron paper funnels (get a bunch of all of these at a place like HFT for under $10) A cookie sheet makes a great platform to set the printer on to prevent spills/messes. Overall this printer is great and the community behind it is superior to any of the dozens I've been a part of for other devices. I'm happy with my purchase and plan to get at least one more of these to have more printing capacity.